Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

heya all

was wondering is it a worthwhile upgrade (if it may be called that) to change from my stock brembo 4 Pot brake setup with QFM A1R pads and dba5000 rotors to the kit available through justjap sold as the Attkd 8-pot 354mm front brake kit? cant seem to find any reviews on it so abit reluctant, but the pricing seems reasonable. it doesnt have to be the Attkd kit, but am on the market for an upgrade that wont require too much stuffing around as i will be doing the install myself and cannot fabricate anything. if you know of someone selling a good upgrade i might even be interested in that

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/397881-brake-upgrade/
Share on other sites

Worthwhile? Depends if your current brakes fade at the present? If they do then going bigger will help fade. If by worthwhile you mean the car will stop quicker then you wont be spending money on the correct parts going for bigger brakes,

If brake fade is marginal then going to a better pad then the QFM A1R will yield an improvement itself as whilst they are a reasonable performance pad, there are plenty around that are better. Bit of course they are more expensive

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/397881-brake-upgrade/#findComment-6318779
Share on other sites

thanks for your response Roy. only enquiring as the stock brembos are coming towards 17years old now and thinkn if its worthwhile to swap over. also to get more into circuit racing so if changing them will yield larger time gains it might be worthwhile. maybe just swap out for ferrodo ds2500 and fresh rbf600?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/397881-brake-upgrade/#findComment-6321805
Share on other sites

The age of the caliper is not a factor for a road car. The condition of the rotor, caliper seals and lines and of course pad and fluid will dictate how they work. Do you run ABS? If you are doing street duties and starting to look at light track duties then I would get some PMU Club Racer or Endless CCX pads. Far better than the DS2500s which are not really different to the pads you currently have.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/397881-brake-upgrade/#findComment-6321887
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, plenty of air flow, there is a dedicated path that feeds the air in to the OEM intake tube behind the bumper As for a "tangible effect", maybe, but getting the pod/intake air out of the hot engine bay is worth it psychologically to me, even if it gives no performance difference, so the tangible effect in my Lizard brain saysss yessss  In the end, to me a tangible effect isn't always about performance, sometimes it a sound or a look, or even a...... feeling  Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga
    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
×
×
  • Create New...