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Found this. Looks like that signal is the opposite of what we want. Bummer 'cause that would have made it pretty easy.

post-76144-0-04244800-1367829961_thumb.jpg

Edited by Commsman

How old was that post Craig? You gotta get out more...

I gave up on the anti lag, it didn't help much as the stally has been returned to a stock stator, and there is no possibility of it ever making boost. Yours would be a different story. I had plans to test another method to pre spool the turbo, compressed air, but this isn't the car to test that theory on. lol.

I can see mine going rwd manual very soon anyway which gets right around the launch issue. Or perhaps I will drop back to a highflow again for launch boosts, and so the gearbox isn't having quite so hard a time.

Anyway, back on topic, the neutral signal will work one way or another, but if it's 12v then it will be a simple strip and twist, nice and easy for a DIY with pics. I will take some shots when I test this out on the next car. (Damn Leon, you beat me to it. Looks like we will need a relay.)

Anyway, back on topic, the neutral signal will work one way or another, but if it's 12v then it will be a simple strip and twist, nice and easy for a DIY with pics. I will take some shots when I test this out on the next car. (Damn Leon, you beat me to it. Looks like we will need a relay.)

Relay will probably work as 0V is normally an earth, but sometimes it is just 0V.

But all is not lost for a dead simple solution. Why not use the Start signal on Pin 42? According to my research, that wire has 9-12V when key in start position & 0V otherwise. Sounds perfect, yes?

post-76144-0-01263000-1367841813_thumb.jpg

DIY instructions:

1) Cut wire on Pin55 a few inches from the ECU connector. Strip ECU end & tape up other end.

2) Strip small amount of insulation from wire on Pin42 (leaving wire intact).

3) Solder Pin55 wire (ECU side) onto Pin42 wire & tape up.

Job done :thumbsup:

post-76144-0-87883200-1367842764_thumb.jpg

Testing & pics are all yours Scotty. I'm not moving mine from where it is as works just fine, but the above is certainly an easier solution....if it performs as expected.

  • 3 weeks later...

so has this been tried and tested yet??

Relay will probably work as 0V is normally an earth, but sometimes it is just 0V.

But all is not lost for a dead simple solution. Why not use the Start signal on Pin 42? According to my research, that wire has 9-12V when key in start position & 0V otherwise. Sounds perfect, yes?

attachicon.gifStart sig on Pin42.JPG

DIY instructions:

1) Cut wire on Pin55 a few inches from the ECU connector. Strip ECU end & tape up other end.

2) Strip small amount of insulation from wire on Pin42 (leaving wire intact).

3) Solder Pin55 wire (ECU side) onto Pin42 wire & tape up.

Job done :thumbsup:

attachicon.gifSimple brake wire mod.JPG

Testing & pics are all yours Scotty. I'm not moving mine from where it is as works just fine, but the above is certainly an easier solution....if it performs as expected.

  • Like 1

would i need to install a diod if i went this option

If you don't want to install a 'valet' switch then you don't need a diode when you connect any 12V source, be it from reverse lights, another pin on the ECU or anywhere else.

Ideally a 12V source close to ECU is best. Just need one that is 12V only at times when you don't need full throttle; eg reversing or starting the car.

The only location for reverse lights that I have found is at the rear, so not very convenient (although I already had a spare wire left over from TV install) & the start signal on the ECU is certainly convenient, but Scotty thinks it may not be active long enough to keep the code clear (although I think it should be OK 'cause when mine put out a CEL it would only take a few seconds with the switch thrown & pedal pushed to clear it).

Why don't you give it a go & let us know? If you do the mod you should know in 500km or so. Cutting one wire & joining it to another seems to be the simplest idea we've come up with so far.

Because it will have looked for the brake wire signal & generally spotted a fault in that time.

Mine sometimes goes weeks without throwing the fault; so it can be a bit hit & miss.

Mine takes about 5 seconds to reset. Still worth trying it, as a quick supply of power might be enough to stop the light from coming on, instead of the few seconds to override the light.

One thing I have noticed is I get better fuel consumption with the light on.

Mine takes about 5 seconds to reset. Still worth trying it, as a quick supply of power might be enough to stop the light from coming on, instead of the few seconds to override the light.

One thing I have noticed is I get better fuel consumption with the light on.

You will.....it will go lean.

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