Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 83
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

haha @ Dave... f**kin crack up

anyway if you were goin to go single (in particluar) borg warner, you cuold probably nearly get away with a 300sx 83/75 with a smaller .91 housing, if not they recomend the larger rear housing which would definatly get you to 500 on E85.

Ive heard precisions are good, cant say first hand though

The BW are awesome bang for buck.. and sounds great :D

That was the engine dyno results, no airbox/intake piping, drivetrain etc.

Would be back under 500rwkw you'd think once in the car. Hard to say as no results got posted after that far as i know (be awesome if they were handy to see once incar).

oh ok, doesn't say engine or chassis dyno so I couldn't tell, though he has posted some where 533wkw in the 33 with -10s.

ok, yeah haven't seen it

poor op,if i'm correct he asked how to make the best of this set, NOT should he run GT-RSs or not and instead of people helping him out he gets hammered with GT-RSs are crap or go single, people should be ashamed

I will say this big duration low lift cams are not the way to go, these turbos need backpressure between the turbo and engine, so the less overlap the better, and as little as possible out side the turbo, higher static comp ratio will help to by loading up motor better, I am also cleaning/smothing the exhaust ports aswell as a minimium, 3" dump pipes to a 4" exhaust would also be a minimium after that remember how they went on so it will be easier to change them to something not garret.

I am still going to use them as it is a street car and the steep ramp rate will make it feel fast for a mates :P

lol thanks bro

op is sweet. ive been sitting here with a bag of popcorn reading this shit thinking to myself when did all these nissansilvia members sign up to sau.

the twin vs single arguement is going to go on for ever similar to that of the holden vs ford etc arguement, there will never be a winner or loser just a bunch of dream boats looking like f**kwits because they think that god himself built there engines and there turbos are any different from anyone elses.

i dont give a f**k about the twin v single arguement - i clearly said it myself if rules in victoria werent so tight and cops didnt think they were judge dred i would 100% get a large single like a gt42r or something.

im not a teenager going for f**k off power to impress my mates or little broad minded persons on the pavement. ive had 3 gtrs now and a multitude of (some very highly modified) imported and european cars so i know exactly what i want out of the car for ME!!!

i asked 2 questions in my first post (still not answered on here but have recieved some insigtful pms from some members)

what head work do you recomend for a high powered rb26/30 (in comparison to what my engine builder has recomended)

what are ppls opinions on gt2871r

now my first question has been answered by other avenues so disregard it.

my second question regarding turbos has led me to believe that alot of ppl dont like 2871rs for what ever reason.

i understand that engine work, head work, cam selection etc needs to be carefully evaluated to make them work to there full potential (which on paper looks acceptable)

if people want to post about the benefits of going single turbo on my car you are simply wasting your time and making me have to read more posts so keep it to your self.

i have been in an r32 gtr with a pretty built engine (standard capacity) with 2871s making 400 kw and it was quite a good little package (5000rpm full boost) i feel that with my 30 block i should be taking 800rpm off that and get it to the low 4000rpm range which is where the gtx3582r would have been hitting full boost (have seen actual results on a car on a dyno similar engine with the same gtx3582r that i had with the tial housing)

now please continue your pointless never ending arguement and actually give me the responses im chasing

peace

We have given our answers, you engine builder needs to do it to suit

or would you like us to say

you need to take out exactly .8432356 mm of matierial from each of the intake ports

to flow exacly xx CFM at 28" HG

we cant do that

every engine is different

We have given our answers, you engine builder needs to do it to suit

or would you like us to say

you need to take out exactly .8432356 mm of matierial from each of the intake ports

to flow exacly xx CFM at 28" HG

we cant do that

every engine is different

This is what i was saying. get a builder that 'knows' how to make them work if you want to use GT-RS'

The correct cam selection, port job, secret squirrell stuff, that usually isnt revealed, to make things work.

The guys with years of experience building and tuning similar/different combos will make them work.

oh and $$$,

If your builder hasnt had the experience to make them work, you will just end up with a not so good result with them, where as the -5 would of achieved a similar feat.

we can tell you to put 290 degree cams in it, but if they dont match the specific port/head work. its pointless.

lol

nah dude

gtx2867r twins

tial housings

internal gates

looking into e85 as well.

it will look stock enough from the top (all the piping will be black etc)

should make mid 400s and keep me happy enough.

67 mm versions.

Considering the result Gav made with the 63 mm versions (500 rwkw at 26 psi), this will be one wild ride!

Tial housing? Whats different with them and why the decision not to stick with the housing's that come with the HKS and Garrett versions of the large low mounts?

I like the how the tials look lol

nah from a bitta research ive found that the tial housings are .64 and the standard rear housing is .84 (i think) so will bring them on better!

However!

Tial rears are v band which means custom pipipng, manifolds etc so adds to the price alot and i dont think it will look standard enough!

Speaking with my engine builder he rkns that the extra price will be alot!

-5s will make 400kw +

Cost for -5's is like 2500 a pair

The gtx will make considerably more power (apparently) but cost is (from us website)

1450 each turbine housing

then add rear housing of choice

actuator of choice

actuator bracket

optional polished compressor housing

v bands

then u still need manifolds and custom piping as well!

Would be cheaper to buy hks 2530's

I like the how the tials look lol

nah from a bitta research ive found that the tial housings are .64 and the standard rear housing is .84 (i think) so will bring them on better!

However!

Tial rears are v band which means custom pipipng, manifolds etc so adds to the price alot and i dont think it will look standard enough!

Speaking with my engine builder he rkns that the extra price will be alot!

-5s will make 400kw +

Cost for -5's is like 2500 a pair

The gtx will make considerably more power (apparently) but cost is (from us website)

1450 each turbine housing

then add rear housing of choice

actuator of choice

actuator bracket

optional polished compressor housing

v bands

then u still need manifolds and custom piping as well!

Would be cheaper to buy hks 2530's

Well look, this seems like you haven't done much research because for a start you've got the rear housing wrong.

Also let's face it, you've asked for 450-500awkw. That's MASSIVE numbers. Which equates to MASSIVE cost, but you're concerned about the cost difference between -5's/GTX5's/2530's? Be more concerned about the huge dollar head you will need, the OSGiken gearbox, the big multiplate clutch, the expensive FMIC, the big fuel system etc. the difference in turbo purchase price is chump change compared to the rest of that stuff.

Just put normal -5's on there, wind up the boost and be happy. If you must have a bigger number to satisfy whatever it is that made you want those numbers in the first place, get the 60mm versions of the GTX-5's and you'll make mid 4's without too much drama. 63mm's will have more lag, but will add a bit more power of course. Forget 67mm's, it's way too much for your power goal.

Don't take any of that as an attack or as being rude. You want honest advice, there it is. That's all I have to say on this topic

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There is a way, but it's not with the same cars. You need to find the same vintage of car, that we had. Realistically, that was an affordable car with aftermarket parts around. So what people need to find is a car that had a decent base in its day, and can be modified. They're looking for a car year make of 2010 to 2015 really... Aus could have done it if Holden didn't fold as V8 commodores were cheap, and if Ford didn't get expensive thanks to COVID, then you could cheaply play with FG Barras. Realistically, those are just a bit heavier, four door skylines. I'm sure the US and UK have similar cars they could find.
    • Haha I do that.. thats when it chirps..The bit point for me is almost non-existent. Otherwise I stall it. But yes, in terms of performance, the clutch is solid af.
    • Greg speaks wisdom. These dirty old Datsuns are only value when they are cheap. When they are not cheap, there is no value. Sounds contradictory, but it's true. We are now 20 years past the hey day of modifying cheap 90s JDM cars for small amounts of money. This is a different world. If you are rich and can afford not to care about what is effectively wasting money on an old Datto shitter, then I have no reason to argue against it. But if you are wanting to experience what we all experienced back in 2005 (and I bought my car last century!) then there is no way to do it.
    • Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-
    • Reading all this... hurts lol. I have an ENR34 5MT and I paid an inflated USA price for the car alone, had to do tons of preventative maintenance past that, and so I'm over $30K USD into the car already and haven't even touched power.  I wanted to +t it. Not even trying to make GTR numbers, I'd be happy with 250hp.  Can I get away with paying much less to make that happen?
×
×
  • Create New...