Jump to content
SAU Community

Roll Cage For My Gtr..who Does A Good Job?


Recommended Posts

thinking about getting a little more serious with my GTR...

Can anyone recommend someone to supply/install a roll cage.

Im happy to transport the car to the right person.

Pro fabrication race engineering in Campbeltown

Look in the fabrication section of this forum for his work

For what you want to do there is a heap of various options you could go with from basic halves through to extensive full cages.

I'm being fairly picky with what types of cages I'm doing now due to time limitations but an r35 with a decent cage is hard to say no to.

If you want to see a couple of designs send me a pm and I'll organize some photos for you.

Brad

Pro fabrication race engineering

0404 832 620

Speedah

We designed a template for a nice, tight fitting structural GTR cage, thats full CAMS compliant, non intrusive from a driving viewpoint (VERY important in a GTR with regards to headroom, A pillar inclusion etc.) and then went and tested it in a 180km/h high speed rollover (unintentional!) Structurally the car remained perfect (drivers door still opens shuts which allowed the driver to live in this case). PM LSX-438 he has seen the installation in person.

This is the guy that made the cage - http://www.alexbennett.com.au/index.html

We can get Alex to carry out the fitment of the cage while we are fitting your larger WR35TTR turbos, upgrading your trans etc. :)

Edit: Found some pics!

cage1.jpg

cage2.jpg

cage3.jpg

cage4.jpg

You may want to check the current CAMS shedule J.

That cage won't be up to min requirements for a two person ocupancy event like Tarmac rallying anymore.

For anything state level + you require roof protection for both sides of the vehicle.

( yours appears to have none at all??)

Another state level requirement is a diagonal from both sides of the roof line.

Either in the hoop or rear leg section

I believe CAMS run most large Tarmac rally's as "national" events

Leading to cars logged after 1/1/2012 to require a proper side intrusion bar being of a sectioned X or U with opposing gussets.

Also they need a drop bar from the front leg 1st bend to base of said leg.

For his intended purpose of SS and track days non of that is required.

Its a signed off CAMS cage, has the correct documentation and meets the requirements of 2011 when it was carried out.

Speedah can make the decision how much he wants to chop the car up/what kind of events he wants to enter. There is some tricky work in pulling the interiors in and out (dash etc.) of these things, but its all good fun!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
×
×
  • Create New...