Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I reckon the Exedy will have a short lifespan as i think they are only rated to 330rwkw so i am pretty keen to see what all the NPC hype is about, they sure sound good and are HEAPS cheaper than what i paid for the damn Exedy!

Everything used in the NPC clutch is Exedy parts.

Doug modifies them to suit the application though. Nissan Patrol hub, 250mm plate, 350Z 250mm pressure plate etc

Oh... Well that is interesting! I should contact him and see what he says about mine and wether i should start thinking about it now or just let the other one go and see what happens....

If im looking at over 300 in the next few years does it seem worth me getting the 10" sprung carbotic over the 10" organic? Or would that be overkill for me? its a daily with 2-5 track and drag days a year. From what i have read the organic is rated to a bit over 300, just worried if i go for 330 next year that the clutch wont take it too well.

Got in touch with NPC

Hi Johnny,

I would recommend our 10 inch heavy duty carbotic button clutch kit.

$755 inc gst for the kit.

To give you some idea the clutch has 1700kg of clamp load & will hold 400rwkw.

I would be lying if I could tell you how long it will last. I would expect allot longer than sports organic.

Thanks,

Doug

Got in touch with NPC

Hi Johnny,

I would recommend our 10 inch heavy duty carbotic button clutch kit.

$755 inc gst for the kit.

To give you some idea the clutch has 1700kg of clamp load & will hold 400rwkw.

I would be lying if I could tell you how long it will last. I would expect allot longer than sports organic.

Thanks,

Doug

yeah thats spot on.. same clutch i run. i dont daily my track car but i did do 300 kms of street driving in tasmania in it with no probs haha

That's bullshit he's lying.

They definitely hold 450rwkw for a long time, 2 step limiter launches, nitrous enriched 2nd gear multiple clutch kicks, power skids and seasons of track work.

I don't know why he would mislead you like that. I told Doug ages ago how f**king good they were

I have one of these. Street is no biggy but with the extreme cold weather in the morning it needs 5 minutes of nurse driving then it becomes fully streetable. Handles all wheel launches and anything else Ive thrown at it. Been in for 4000 km so its still early days.

I have one of these. Street is no biggy but with the extreme cold weather in the morning it needs 5 minutes of nurse driving then it becomes fully streetable. Handles all wheel launches and anything else Ive thrown at it. Been in for 4000 km so its still early days.

Why? Shudder?

That's bullshit he's lying.

They definitely hold 450rwkw for a long time, 2 step limiter launches, nitrous enriched 2nd gear multiple clutch kicks, power skids and seasons of track work.

I don't know why he would mislead you like that. I told Doug ages ago how f**king good they were

Yeah but I guess he is being slightly conservative.

After all if you give a dickhead an unbreakable object, my money is on the dickhead.

Yeah but I guess he is being slightly conservative.

After all if you give a dickhead an unbreakable object, my money is on the dickhead.

That is true.

As a matter of fact, a customer who is new to button clutches is more likely to kill it with kindness rather than abuse. Riding it too much is a killer.

I would ask Doug if he can make you a 6puk plate instead so its easier to drive and definitely go carbotic over ceramic. It's a little bitier but definitely handles the heat better

I don't really ride my clutches usually it's a on and off love affair with me :)

I'm just waiting on Doug to see if he can also get a gearbox front seal kit & stronger pivot bolt and it's on like Donkey Kong! If the clutch is too heavy, I will upgrade my slave to a Nismo item, like I've done in the past.

I don't really ride my clutches usually it's a on and off love affair with me :)

I'm just waiting on Doug to see if he can also get a gearbox front seal kit & stronger pivot bolt and it's on like Donkey Kong! If the clutch is too heavy, I will upgrade my slave to a Nismo item, like I've done in the past.

Doug builds clutches. Why not just go to Nissan for your seals and gasket?

The clutch pedal will most likely be lighter than your existing clutch. They are almost lighter than a standard HD. You won't need a pivot ball. Just lube it properly

Doug builds clutches. Why not just go to Nissan for your seals and gasket?

The clutch pedal will most likely be lighter than your existing clutch. They are almost lighter than a standard HD. You won't need a pivot ball. Just lube it properly

Nissan spares are only open weekdays and unfortunately I work a boring desk job in the city. I might just go through Kudos and order it.

I've heard horror stories of stock pivots snapping with heavier clutches, on my previous R33 I went all anal and replaced the pivot, slave, seals etc.. lol

Tried searching on Amayama.com? Ive had a few good purchases from them..... Not always cheaper but a couple of items have been WAY cheaper and just as fast to get as Nissan were even from JP

It's on like Donkey Kong!

Just ordered it, now I need to clean the BBQ and buy a slab of beer to bribe a few mates to drop the box. I wish I still had access to a gearbox stand & hoist makes life so much easier :unsure:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
    • Yeah that looks like great caster, but I'd suggest trying less front camber some time and seeing if it helps with braking without reducing mid corner speed too much
    • I ended up setting the rear 5mm higher than normal to give some clearance.  My plan is to run the least camber I can in the rear which I think with the extra width is going to need to be -1.75 to -2.00° just to get clearance.  Guards have been rolled and pulled as much as they can/I would be wanting to.  front has the Acostal knuckle with the KPI change and the drop etc. So should be okay with the existing settings I have run with AR1s etc Front: Toe total -2mm(1mm out each side) Caster +7.5° Camber -3.8° Ackerman +15°
×
×
  • Create New...