Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

There's a place called Alliance Rim Repair, or maybe its Allianz.

It's something like that and it's sort of near Northbridge, but on the Leederville end. It's a garage that is built into a petrol station there on a crossroads at some lights.

Shit my directions are hopeless ... sorry I've had a big weekend and my brain's a bit dead :)

Anyway they're pretty good ... fixed my brothers rims after he slid into a lightpole.

Originally posted by adam 32

macka ive got some new tools... ill do it for ya!:D  

mr mag does wheel repairs

Adam, Mr Mag doesn't do rim repairs, he sends em out.

Only three places I know are

Alliance Rim Repairs ( James st. N/bridge )

Leo Gommers ( Railway pde Cannington )

Frank at Magtech in W/pool . My favourite but I think he has just been bought out by Alliance .

Ken

Originally posted by adam 32

ken, where does mr mag send his wheels for repairs? does that mean by getting a wheel repaired through them your paying a higher price bcos theyre subcontracting another company...?

Err, I'm sure he doesn't do it for love , so yea, he prolly charges a commission.

No I don't know where he sends em .

Ken

Yep alliance is definately the way to go. Im sure u guys know what my rim looked like and he managed to fix it:eek:

Was pretty cheap, his name is Mark and its just behind the gararge on the corner like 2 shops down. The number is 9328 8373. Good luck macka.

What did u do Pva more crazy driftin? kinda hard to adapt to new tyres eh?:burnout:

Heres a tricky one

My rims are actually alluminium polished then silver anodised

I tried to polish out some salt water stains and end up making it worse then realised they aint mirror polish but anodised

Too yucky weather to get wheel off last night and im still at work now so looks like ill be in the Rolux for a while

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...