Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Put redline lightweight in my car r32 gtst. I reckon its all wank about how good it is if anything the g/box is a little crunchier. I'd guess/say on most people just changing the oil made the difference! Couldn't justify the $110 next time.

On the short shifter.

The short shifter only presents a wear issue due to overselection that doesn't occur unless you rest your hand on the shifter whilst driving along (a stupid thing to do regardless of a short shifter) and 'ramming' the gear selection with Arnie-like power. Other than that there is no difference to a normal shifter and the kind of oil you run.

Well i went to get some gear oil, called them up first and they said $50 for 1L... ended up they were quoting me for engine oil... so i specified that i wanted Redline Lightweight Shockproof Geabox Oil... made sure he understood, and he then said $25.25 so that sounded better... then he corrected himself again and said it was actually $20.25. So i said i'll take two 1L bottles and i'm coming to get it now (only neede 2 for a top up after spillage when gearbox was removed)... i get there, paid for parking, and he then says he made a mistake and it was actually $33 per litre... wouldn't budge on price when i told him everywhere else was $28... dirty biatch. If i hadn't needed it that badly i would have told him to kiss it and got it from somewhere else when more stock arrived. And the fact that i'd driven all that way and paid for parking!!! This better be good oil... otherwise i'll be going to VMX80 next time at $9 per 1L

Well i went to get some gear oil, called them up first and they said $50 for 1L... ended up they were quoting me for engine oil...

$50/Litre for Redline engine oil?!?!?!?

HOOOOOOOOOOOOLY CARP!!!!!! eek3.gifeek3.gifeek3.gifeek3.gif

yeah... what a rip!!!

well i got the gearbox oil in... but there is a little story behind it now. Dad has this bottle that has a pipe in the top with a tap on it (so you can control flow) and a air valve in the top next to where the pipe goes into the bottle... you put the oil in the can, pump it up and the air pressure in the can forces the oil out the pipe with the tap in it. Well i was under the car controlling the flow and dad is pumping up the bottle. The first litre goes in fine so i empty the second bottle in. Under the car i go again and dad pumps it up a bit... it's flowing nicely... i said pump it a little more but not too much... so what does he do? pumps it 10 times and the pressure blows the pipe off the bottle... so my $30 geabox oil is spraying all over the road and there's nothing i can do about it but try and get the pipe back on the bottle as i get hosed in green oil. Consequently i now don't have enough in the gearbox so i have to find someone else in melbourne that has Redline and i have to do it all over again tomorrow and piss away another $30.

Not happy about that at all

yeah what a rip...

Well i get home jack up the car and dad brings out this can that has a pipe with a 'tap' on it... you put the bike pump on one side and pump it up and it forces the oil out of the can through the pipe with the tap on it... anyway i'm under the car and dad is pumping. The first litre goes in fine so i fill up the can again and back under the car i go... i said pump a little more but not too much... what does he do?? gives it about 10 quick pumps and blows the hose off the can... so my $32 oil is flowing all over the road and there is nothing i can do about it but get covered in it as I try to get the pipe back on the can. Consequently there is not enough oil in the gearbox so now i have to find someone that has more oil, spend another $30 and do it again tomorrow. I cracked it at him and he then cracks it back at me and said it was my fault for telling him to pump it...

Not happy about it!

  • 4 months later...

I wouldn't leave my oil in for 400,000kms, but then I wouldn't change it at 10,000kms either.

I'm no mechanic but 50,000kms sounds like a nice round figure to me. Obviously it would

have a lot to do with what you use your car for (drags etc.).

I imported my car November 2002. I put Redline Shockproof Light in my car Feb 2003, because I had crunching when cold and crunching 1-2 & 3-4 with spirited (not stupid) shifts.

After about 500kms with Redline my gearbox improved. When cold there was the slightest notch from 1-2, When hot it would only crunch 1-2 with moderate to hard shift. I ran this oil for 25,000kms with no other probs.

In August 2004 I had to replace clutch so I decided to give Redline Shockproof Heavy a go.

I have done about 1000kms with it. If I am not careful it crunches from 1-2 when cold. When hot it doesn't matter how hard I change it will not crunch.

http://www.redlineoil.com.au/reseller-locations.asp

I would not pay over $120 for Shockproof, check link and ring around

yeah i figured that i'm not going to be changing it very often so why not pay the extra $50 over the cost of other oils. Everyone that uses it says it's great so that's a good enough reason for me. The only thing i hear people whinge about it is the price. I have light weight and think it's pretty good.

Andrew

  • 1 month later...

I had a problem with shifting from 3rd to 4th. I put the castrol syntrax in and it got worse. Started crunching sometimes from 2nd to third and always from 4th to 5th. So I put the redline lightweight shockproof in and the problems were gone immediately. Since leaving the workshop it has never crunched in any gear.

What a difference!

  • 4 weeks later...

I picked up my r33 gtst from the dealer it was back there that week due to 1st to 2nd gear crunchey and the shifter moveing up and down in 2nd they put the redline in it has now been 5000ks and its getting better all the time

also the 2nd gear syncro is going to die first and you can not replace case hardend steel or brass with oil it will mask the prob for a bit

Guest two.06l
I had a problem with shifting from 3rd to 4th.  I put the castrol syntrax in and it got worse.  Started crunching sometimes from 2nd to third and always from 4th to 5th.  So I put the redline lightweight shockproof in and the problems were gone immediately.  Since leaving the workshop it has never crunched in any gear.

What a difference!

redline lightweight shockproof is the go. I dont like to think about how many smurfs they bled to make it though.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Was going to say the car pulls up nicely everywhere, especially going into that last long right hander before the main straight. Looks like a lot of fun.
    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
×
×
  • Create New...