Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hello

I have recently brought a 1994 r33 with a RB20e in it, i was just wanting help on what modification i could do to it to get maximum legal horse power. I am on my P plate so unable to turbo it. I have already brought a pod filter for it and am currently building a cold air box for it.

Just wanting to know the best mods and are there any good performance chips out there?

would appreciate your help, i know its a shit engine so please no criticism.

Thanks in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/399227-rb20e-mods-please/
Share on other sites

max power you would most possibly get without opening up your engine would be the 150hp mark.

but it will be an expensive trip.

N/A tuning is not for the shallow pocket, nor for the faint hearted, thats why BMW M power and AMG cost the goods :D

like said above, wait till your off your p's or just buy a s2000. they haul ass

don't spend a single cent on it. if you want more power, sell it and by a r33 with the rb25 in it. that alone will see you get a roughly 40kw gain in power. the amount you would have to spend on your motor to even get close to that would be close to what you could buy a second complete car for, plus it wouldn't be P plate legal. you will only get a few kw gain from any mods that will be P plate legal (and not to mention the fact that any mods that will gain you more than a few kw will cost a buttload). to be honest, you would've been better off buying a different car. a commodore, falcon or even a lancer would beat your car. and for those that know me will know what the next car recommendation will be (and it isn't a magna, it's the other one). my choice would've been a SSS pulsar. it has more power than the rb20E in the skylines (9kw more), and the car weighs less (over 100kg less).

probably not what you wanted to hear

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...