Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i use the "no time" excuse because i simply don't have the time to take the car to a mechanic to get done. but i do take that into account when pricing the car as well. having said that, the cars i have sold "as is" have always then passed rwc's first time with no issues either. most of the stuff a car may fail a rwc for is easily checked yourself. as long as the tyres are good, there's no oil leaks, the brake pads are good and it drives well (no weird noises or vibrations) then there won't be much trouble with it passing a rwc. and besides, a car can be a complete lemon despite passing a rwc. they don't check actual condition of the engine, etc. just check that it is safe for the road. hence the fact that you can have a car pass a rwc that could be defected due to illegal mods.

i agree to a certain extent. there are plenty of things joe average cant pick up on. eg i inspected a subaru forester for sale with no RWC for a friend once, i declared it to be fine to pass RWC, only to have the inspecting officer say that the drivers seat needed replacing due to having too much wear on the padding! goes to show that its not always the simple stuff that matters.

Thanks a lot guys. That was more than enough to answer my question. Car that comes with RWC does not mean anything. When I bought my R33, it comes with RWC but after I transfer the registration and take the car for a service, my mechanic told me there is an oil leak and several other problems that does not pass the RWC.

From then on I do not care bout RWC because I will rather spend $80 on a full RWC check, engine check and let my mechanic have a look at the car before I buy any car.

that makes perfect sense IF there is no problems.. otherwise that small sum of $80 can get pretty big!!

In my experience, that is a very naive way to purchase a car.

i agree to a certain extent. there are plenty of things joe average cant pick up on. eg i inspected a subaru forester for sale with no RWC for a friend once, i declared it to be fine to pass RWC, only to have the inspecting officer say that the drivers seat needed replacing due to having too much wear on the padding! goes to show that its not always the simple stuff that matters.

that makes perfect sense IF there is no problems.. otherwise that small sum of $80 can get pretty big!!

In my experience, that is a very naive way to purchase a car.

What i mean is, I will spend $80 to do a full RWC check to see if there is anything needed to repair in order to pass RWC, trust me I have enough experience in dealing with car without RWC. This is my sixth purchase and I got ripped off twice before and it is a serious one. The second one gave me a really hard time. It gets dragged on for 2 months. He just wouldnt leave me alone although I'm the victim. I learned it the hard way.

Anyway, thanks for the advice. I will definitely post a picture if I bought the car.

After some research, I think 17k for a 1999 r34 at 110000 kms onwards is really overpriced. Am I wrong?

What i mean is, I will spend $80 to do a full RWC check to see if there is anything needed to repair in order to pass RWC, trust me I have enough experience in dealing with car without RWC. This is my sixth purchase and I got ripped off twice before and it is a serious one. The second one gave me a really hard time. It gets dragged on for 2 months. He just wouldnt leave me alone although I'm the victim. I learned it the hard way.

Anyway, thanks for the advice. I will definitely post a picture if I bought the car.

After some research, I think 17k for a 1999 r34 at 110000 kms onwards is really overpriced. Am I wrong?

its getting towards the high end for stock examples, but yes you are wrong, it is not "really overpriced"

they do have the neo engine, but if the engine cover has been taken off the engine looks very much like the standard rb25. only major difference in looks is the throttle body setup (other small differences, but throttle body is the easiest to spot)

Guys,

There is a seller selling his car which is only 3 weeks after the import took place. No rego and no rwc obviously selling at $14000 on 78k.

another one is 11500 at 90k (not new import) with rego but no rwc

In your opinion, should I just get the one that has just arrived in australia?

Both sellers told me they are willing to drive the car to my mechanic for a full check. So I guess they are confident in their car.

WHICH ONE? OMGGGGGGGG

Edited by R33 Gts-T Sedan

Yes, meeting with the seller this saturday morning at my mechanic's. If there are no major repairs required to get the car in good condition, I'll buy it immediately. If repairs will cost above $500, I'll look at the newly import one.

Came back from checking the car.

Engine:

Very bad oil leaks. Something that looks like an engine mount located beside the two front tyres cracked both of them (forgotten whats the name). Timing belt has to be replaced. 4 tyres are worn out. Exhaust damaged still usable but have to change.

Body:

A few scracthes. A few rusty area. Body looks so old compared to other R34.

HKS suspension with knocking sound. (common but don't like it so its my personal choice to change all of them cost around $2000 maybe.

AND other problems.

Cost a little over $2000 to repair everything.

Seller reduced the price for me down to $10,500 but I'm just worried bout the rust. There might be rust in other place that I couldn't see.

Opinion guys? Look for another car patiently or grab this one and fix it.

  • 4 weeks later...

Most rR34's are overpriced. I sold my auto R34 with a ton of mods and 135,000kms for 13.5k just because the HKS turbo was noisy. The guy got a gret deal and i was being realistic. This was over a year ago. Some of the prices I see today make me LOL

  • 4 weeks later...

Came back from checking the car.

Engine:

Very bad oil leaks. Something that looks like an engine mount located beside the two front tyres cracked both of them (forgotten whats the name). Timing belt has to be replaced. 4 tyres are worn out. Exhaust damaged still usable but have to change.

Body:

A few scracthes. A few rusty area. Body looks so old compared to other R34.

HKS suspension with knocking sound. (common but don't like it so its my personal choice to change all of them cost around $2000 maybe.

AND other problems.

Cost a little over $2000 to repair everything.

Seller reduced the price for me down to $10,500 but I'm just worried bout the rust. There might be rust in other place that I couldn't see.

Opinion guys? Look for another car patiently or grab this one and fix it.

Was this r34 sort of blue/grey with gold drift teks?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have more than enough digging, laying blocks, moving gravel, airrating, feeding and top soiling the grass, and setting up the veggie gardens growing some seedlings,  and then removing all the unused rock to keep me busy for the next few months at least,  hopefully the rain stops soon so I can get a few hours in this arvo, but, before that Sunday is washing day, is every body happy, you bet your life we are Nice country road day drives are a day off whenever I'm muscle sore from all the landscaping at the moment, but, more epic multiple day drives will start once the majority of the big jobs outside are completed
    • I hear that would involve some nice country road drives into the hills for Mark...
    • I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
×
×
  • Create New...