Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

No proper ECU?

Without a ECU really you aren't realistically going to make any more than 160-170rwkw. So there is a reason you can't believe it - it's because it's not true.

The car should run 110mph with over 200rwkw, I bet it doesn't run better than 104 ;)

How do you get better mileage with 10% ethanol? You need to use more fuel of it to get the benefits from it.

Simlar to E85, but on a lesser scale of course

been using the united 95 e blend in the missus stock as a rock honda for a while now and the economy is just as good as it was with bp98

go figure.. ;)

I have a dyno sheet stating that the car made over 200 rwkw, so what you think the ecu is not standard?

I could make my car pull 600rwkw on a dyno if i wanted, doesn't means it's worth the paper it's printed on. :)

Do you even know if you have an after market ECU? If it's chipped etc?

If you have factory one, it is exactly what we all told you before - it is not possible to "tune" a dead stock ECU.

In that instance I doubt very highly you are making over 200rwkw (legitimately). 200rwkw is pretty much "the limit" for a stock turbo with a proper tuneable ECU and so on.

A tune would cost upwards of $400 for entry level, so if you didn't at the least hand over $500 I reckon you are being led up the garden path.

A properly tuned ECU will give you a much better midrange, drive abilty and improved economy over a stock ECU

It's either you can't read or your having trouble understanding, I know you can't tune a standard ecu. All I said was that the car made over 200 rwkw. I might have said it in a previous post but that was my mistake. Just wish people read the comments before replying

It's either you can't read or your having trouble understanding, I know you can't tune a standard ecu. All I said was that the car made over 200 rwkw. I might have said it in a previous post but that was my mistake. Just wish people read the comments before replying

You asked if it was OK to use a standard ecu? Why would you ask this if you didn't have a standard ecu? Instead of wishing for people to read comments (which they did anyway) start wishing for some common sense. Give santa enough time to locate some and deliver it to you for Christmas.

You have people here trying to help you out based on info you provided and your being a smartass.

at the end of the day, what everyone is saying is that the stock turbo simply cant flow enough for more than 200rwkw

generally speaking they max out at 190-195 rwkw and that is running 14psi with a full ecu (more boost than is really a good idea with a stock turbo)

a stock ecu will hit rich and retard mode when you go over around 10 psi and will pull timing out. this tends to limit the car to say 180rwkw TOPS

these facts have been backed up 11ty billion times on these forums.

what people are saying is that if the car makes over 200rwkw on a stock ecu with a stock turbo, then the "tuner" is fudging the results - which is simple to do.

end of the day, does the car run fast? do you enjoy driving it? are you happy? if yes, then just enjoy it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...