Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey hows it going i got a R33 GTST

With the following mods

Turbo back 3.5" HKS exhaust

Apexi Panel Air Filter

Blitz ProSpec 2 EBC

Nistune ECU

Splitfire Coilpacks

OS Geiken Twin Plate Clutch

Greedy Front Mount Intercooler

I am currently still running a stock turbo but i want to move onto something low mount which is better then my stock one and ive run into a problem which one to choose im stuck between two turbos.

One of them is a Hypergear ATR43 G3: http://www.digi-hardware.com/atr43.html

Or this Kinugawa TD06 Turbo: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kinugawa-Turbocharger-3-Nissan-RB25DET-TD06H-w-Garrett-60-1-12cm-500HP-/290705745228?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43af69a54c

I am mainly looking for a turbo which can make at least 370 hp and i want to know which one would be the most reliable and i dont have any plans on running any more then 20psi of boost

The reason i am going Low mount is that ive made my car to look more like a sleeper and i like the idea of a low mount thats internally gated and its a cheaper option as well.

If you know of any other better turbos up to the $1500 mark, could you guys recommend me some.

I really appreciate if anyone can help me out

Your Truly,

NickPerth

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/399685-i-need-help-picking-a-turbo/
Share on other sites

They are both proven performers... Did you read both threads? You should be able to make an informed decision with the info on there for your own needs, you dont want to get a turbo because someone on a forum said it was better than the other and then find out that its not what suits you. I think HG may suit you better due to the stealth theme AND budget.... But others may lean you towards the Kinugawa, YOUR choice man!

if you def want internally gated and all the other requirements are rock solid, (sleeper, low mount, cheap ) then you have no options, you have to get a HG turbo...

Kinugawa, if you had of read the thread, has most people saying externally gated is the way to go...

Im sure a few others will come in with their own opinions as well and you'll be left confused by the replies and at the end of it you'll make your own decision anyways...

the forums has heaps of info about turbo choice, you just need to read.

Im sure a few others will come in with their own opinions as well and you'll be left confused by the replies and at the end of it you'll make your own decision anyways...

the forums has heaps of info about turbo choice, you just need to read.

This.

You should be able to get a GT3076 for under that price delivered, have you asked street to track or someone else that supplies from the US?

For the turbo only, yeah probably... But then he needs to change lines etc... and not as stealth which i think is his goal... Plus without doing the fuel system (no mention of it) the 3076 would be out of its efficiency range at lower boost levels maybe? I dunno, just thinking the HG would be the easy way to go and what the OP is chasing...

Speaking from experience, the ATR43 G3 isn't really stealthy either. It's very obvious. Even when I had the smaller G2 and I was worried about getting pinged for it so tried my hardest to make it look stock, it still stood out. That's what made me decide to ditch the stealth idea and go all out.

The only way you will ever get a truly stealthy turbo is if you highflow and make use of the stock housings, otherwise you should forget it. Otherwise if just being low mount is stealthy enough for you, the G3 will work :thumbsup:

STT $1235 GT3076IW plus will need oil/water lines, spacer, dump and an intake solution. It will be over $1500 but will be equally as stealthy/unstealthy as other options mentioned and both of those will require some changes to intake, oil/water, dump.

Like I said it should be on the table as an option. If you are short of cash save up for another few weeks until you can afford to buy the right part for your application. If the cheapest option meets your needs then go for it but my experience has taught me that cheaper doesn't always work out better in the long run.

Cheap and stealthy is hi-flow territory.

i forgot to mention i already have injectors and upgraded fuel pump, i got nismo 740cc injectors and bosch 044 fuel pump

What i meant by 1.5k was just for the turbo and i know ill have to change the lines and dump pipe which is fine for me for the extra cost.

What im sort of looking is a good turbo which will has a bit of response so its not too laggy and i am down for paying a bit more to buy a decent turbo which wont fail unlike the cheap ebay stuff. But i am pretty much looking for a turbo with decent response and can make at least 360 at the rears, while my ideal goal would be 400 but anything between 360-400 hp would be great.

I did orginally look at the HG highflow option but im not sure how good they are espically there PU highflow options.

Though i am interested in a GT3076 Though i would like to know were are you guys are getting these prices.

I have had a read in the kinugawa thread and the HG thread but theres a lot of mix reviews and i just want to some opinions that would suit my ideal sort of setup.

Yours Truly,

NickPerth

If that is the case it does open up the 3076 option and i think it would be a good one for you, however the Kando and HG are both proven performers AND i am biased as i have a Garrett ;)

i forgot to mention i already have injectors and upgraded fuel pump, i got nismo 740cc injectors and bosch 044 fuel pump

What i meant by 1.5k was just for the turbo and i know ill have to change the lines and dump pipe which is fine for me for the extra cost.

What im sort of looking is a good turbo which will has a bit of response so its not too laggy and i am down for paying a bit more to buy a decent turbo which wont fail unlike the cheap ebay stuff. But i am pretty much looking for a turbo with decent response and can make at least 360 at the rears, while my ideal goal would be 400 but anything between 360-400 hp would be great.

I did orginally look at the HG highflow option but im not sure how good they are espically there PU highflow options.

Though i am interested in a GT3076 Though i would like to know were are you guys are getting these prices.

I have had a read in the kinugawa thread and the HG thread but theres a lot of mix reviews and i just want to some opinions that would suit my ideal sort of setup.

Yours Truly,

NickPerth

There is quite a big difference between 360 and 400 though, so make sure you decide which one you want to aim for. You might be able to get 360rwhp from a HG highflow, but you won't get 400 and achieve anything near decent response. If you want 400 and are willing to consider the other HG turbos, the SS2 has been netting some very impressive results.

I think you will find that with the HG thread, there had been a lot of moaning and complaining from us customers not making expected numbers early on. But more recently, these same people have been getting our setups sorted out and we are starting to make the numbers. Have a look through the RB25 dyno thread as well, the SS2 has been pulling the numbers and has very good response. The G3 is also making numbers, but is down a bit on response.

I am mainly looking for a turbo which can make at least 370 hp and i want to know which one would be the most reliable and i dont have any plans on running any more then 20psi of boost

Get a High Flow from Hypergear, the RB20 high flow I have runs 20psi and it's putting out ~ 370hp at the engine.

Wolverine - when is ur turbo coming onto boost and full boost?

On the dyno from memory (as I lost all my scanned dyno plots) it reaches peak 22.5psi by 4000rpm ish but with the extra load on the road it is a bit earlier.

I will have to pay attention next time on the road where it comes off vaccuum/on boost in 4th.

Though i am interested in a GT3076 Though i would like to know were are you guys are getting these prices.

Streettotrack is where I got my price from.

Don't rule out a hiflow as they are cheap and make good usable power for the street. The GT3076 is always going to need a few more revs to get going than a smaller turbo like the HG SS1 PU but ultimately if the turbo makes 180-200rwkw by 4000rpm it will be plenty quick.

Some will have more top end but suffer with transient throttle response and some will be make a few less hp but be much more lively to drive. Don't get too tied up in dyno plots of turbos in isolation since there is so much more to how they drive once you get behind the wheel.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not a problem at all Lithium, I appreciate your help regardless. I've pulled a small part of a log where the target pressure was 28psi and it spiked to 36.4psi. I've only just begun using Data Log Viewer so if I'm sending this in the wrong format let me know.
    • Sorry had a bit of a week and haven't had heaps of time to follow this, so apologies if I've missed something - any chance of showing a log with the rpm, turbo speed, MAP, and wgdc all in one view? Definitely an "interesting" problem, and while it's definitely worth noting that there was a similar issue with the twins I'd not completely put all bets on the root cause being the same thing.  Keep an open mind, follow the data.
    • I built this engine approximately 12 years ago so my own head (brain) is a little grey on the exact hardware in the RB head, however what I recall is. Stock RB25 NEO TURBO Intake Camshaft HKS 260 degree Exhaust Camshaft (R34 GTR) RB25 NEO Turbo Springs  I ported/removed the exhaust stud humps found in the RB25 head so theres less turbulence but it wasn't ported/polished properly, just a hump removal. I've attached two pictures of the before and after to illustrate.     The ECU gets its boost reference from the nipple on the rear of the head on the intake side, behind the fuel rail. The wastegate gets its boost reference from a nipple on the cooler pipe immediately after the comp cover.  Could a decent pressure drop across the intercooler cause the wastegate to be seeing a higher PSI than what the ECU is seeing, and thus it can't control it accurately and quick enough?   We ran a line to the actuator and watched it open and close using an air compressor, while we didn't have a gauge on the line to see when it was cracking open, it was opening smoothly.  I just removed the gate now and even though the documentation says you need to open it in a vice due to preload (which I did), there wasn't any preload on the cap, which is something we noticed straight out of the box as well when new. This silver cap internally is threaded to the actuator rod that runs out the bottom of the straightgate. Not sure how I'm supposed to get this spring out to be frank.. Potentially but everyone else doesn't appear to have to stop at 500kw because of 6boosts design.  I would, but I think I'm getting to that point where if I'm going to do the head and make another 100kw, then I'm going to need a fancy gearbox and quite a few other things and 10k becomes 20k becomes 30k within a few months. I'm not necessarily sold on the idea just yet that the head is restrictive at 4000rpm (and what.. 300kw?) and yet doesn't seem to be restrictive at 7000rpm when it's making 500kw, however I'm obviously not closing the door on that theory.
    • Yeah - Half the problem is I know this sensor actually goes to 150C.. I'm pretty certain it is min of 11C. So still more data required I suppose. It's really quite hard to get the oil temp to 100+ then immediately pull over and take a reading before the temp drops. Annoyingly I suppose the range I really 'want' is likely 80 -> 120C. TBH the ecu can't really *do* anything with it, and the gauge itself is very visible... ...but you know how it is.
    • My EFR 8474 Black, made 800awhp on a roller dyno. at 25-26psi. E85. Shaft speed was around 106,000rpm 1.01 rear. The rear is maxed.  6 boost Turbosmart 60mm gate 3.5inch exhaust  Head is worked to the shithouse. Bain racing. VCam. 272 exhaust. RB28 - RB26 foundation.  You have an intake issue. Start getting proper data and I mean go back to the simple things.  - Pressure test your intake - Block off the Turbo BOV, you don't need it.  - Test pressure before and after your intercooler If your head is pretty stock, that is your issue. Especially if it is NA.  Take it off and spend $10k on it. 
×
×
  • Create New...