Jump to content
SAU Community

Change Diff From A-Lsd To Mechanical

tricstar
 Share

Recommended Posts

tricstar Mentor

tricstar

Posted
Posted

ok due to the head fxxk of the A-LSD, I've decided to change to a mechanical LSD,

so do I just need the standard diff housing? can it be an R32 GTR one ( my car is R33 GTR ), is there any difference? also will the drive shafts and tail shaft bolt staight up to the standard diff?

tricstar Mentor

tricstar

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Get one to suit a 33gtr and everything will bolt up. Go new though as usually you get everything you will need, instead of going 2nd hand and having stuff missing

but from what I have read, I need to change the whole diff housing as there is no after market diff centre to fit into the Active-LSD housing?

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

I just went through it all. :)

You need to change diff housing to a R33 GTR Non V-Spec. Not expensive, can get them for 200-300 2nd hand.

I thought you needed the non-spec shafts as they are different lengths when you measure.

But it turns out the actual shafts are the same length, it's the coupling big (forget the technical name, bit where the shaft connects with) that is slightly different and I believe it can be purchase separate if you cannot get shafts to suit

Makes it easier/faster if you can get the housing with the shafts together obviously.

The car with a Nismo 1.5 GT Pro is 10000% better than with the crappy A-LSD, which has no upgrade options.

It's set to the lowest lock setting and still locks incredibly hard when you want, very predictable. Any more I think would be too much.

My car now behaves like a RWD car in terms of hooking around @ a motorkhana with a bit of clutch or trailing throttle lock-up and turn - yet straighten the wheels and it 4 wheel power slides nicely or grips and goes depending on what you want.

Also induces some good mid corner oversteer where previously it would just understeer/plough off terribly doing the same things ;)

I didn't realise how bad the A-LSD was until changing over... I don't wanna sell the car now it's changed it that much

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

I don't know mate - I was told to get a R33 rear end specifically.

I know the part numbers for R32 & R33 are the same in terms of the Nismo differential... Doesn't mean the housings are though...

Someone will be able to confirm though 100%

arrydjay Community Regular

arrydjay

Posted
Posted

I just did this in my gtst. I bought a second hand regular gtst diff and just threw it in.... everything fitted up fine for me, the only thing i needed was a new set of nuts and bolts to connect the halfshafts to the axles as the a-lsd halfshafts were threaded and the gtst ones were not....

Ripped out the pump and reservoir as well.

At the time I just shimmed the new diff, but thats shit and only lasted a few weeks and I absolutely locked the fark out of it.... next mod is either a kaaz or nismo centre.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Ye that doesn't surprise me.

Ideally yes you want diff & axles. It just makes it a simple bolt in/out (once you do the centre.)

But... if you can't get the shafts, you can use your v-spec ones as they are the same length. It's just the the coupling bit that's the different length betweeen VS and non-VS (the technical name for the part still escapes me)...

I can find out the proper name and shit next week exactly and report back. I doubt you'll find a R33 non-VS rear in a couple days. I was looking for a good 2 months for one priced appropriately.

bigmikespec Veteran

bigmikespec

Posted
Posted

spoke to a mate in the know last night and the R32 GTR diff and axles is a touch shorter...

so I'm after a R33 GTR non-Vspec diff and axles, anyone ??

Yes they are, I have measured them as I have a R32 GTR diff. from a 1994 car to replace my A-LSD. Just need some spacers machined, from memory it is only about 5mm.

tricstar Mentor

tricstar

Posted
  • Author
Posted

OK I've got the Non V-spec diff and axles,

now I have a few questions about what to do regarding the hydraulics and electrics?

My thinking is, just block off the hydraulics from the pump under the car and rip everything from there to the diff out.. I'm thinking I shouldn't need to cut or disconnect any wiring (except the obvious between pump and diff) as the new diff will be locked before any signal is sent.? Being that the A-LSD is on the same circuit as the AWD I don't want to hack it and then get faults with the AWD ?

How do others do it ? What have you blocked off, cut etc?? (Nismoid)?

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

The Transfer case & rear diff pumps are all in the same cradle so easier just to leave them there and remove the lines which is what happened to mine.

I cant remember if the power feed for the A-LSD was disconnected. It's not throwing any failure lights, i know that much. I'll find out and report back next week.

tricstar Mentor

tricstar

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The Transfer case & rear diff pumps are all in the same cradle so easier just to leave them there and remove the lines which is what happened to mine.

I cant remember if the power feed for the A-LSD was disconnected. It's not throwing any failure lights, i know that much. I'll find out and report back next week.

cool, can you also have a look and see if they blocked off the line from reservoir in the boot or just the line from solenoid to diff?I should do a DIY when I do the swap for future reference.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Blue slip

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I have been being VERY quiet about what you're alluding to, as it is something that ticks me off... The number of cars from factory that run coil overs is HUGE! Most of them these days do... The other part that annoys me, is people saying "Well all the incabin adjustable suspension is illegal by blah blah blah"... If that's the case, then why can I buy a car brand new that can do it if, FULL STOP in cabin adjustable suspension is illegal...   Also, I could just chuck some aftermarket shocks in my car, throw the stock springs on, after my blue slip, dump my super low springs back in. Same shock and spring style setup... Hell, they could also be the same colour springs etc.     I'm voting, BlueSlipper didn't want to touch the above car for some reason. Whether it be some sort of bias against the car, the owner, them maybe having previously done dodgy shit and now they're being super careful in case they get slapped in the face by the Gumbyment again... Find a new blueslip place.   And can confirm as you had said, yes there are holy bibles of vehicle heights, and all sorts of other suspension stuff. Heck your run of the mill mechanic, and tyre shop has access to all of that stuff. It's how they do wheel alignments...
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Funny story Heading to Sydney this morning on the HWY there was some slow traffic, so I gave it the beans and midway through my overtaking "power run" I lost all power It seems that I missed a hose clamp,  and the MAF and filter went WiFi To make this more problematic, the little tool kit that lives in the boot, is sitting in the sun room at Goulburn......LOL Luckily for me I found a bit of steel on the side of the road that could be used like a rusty and bent flat head screw driver to tighten it up enough that it got me into Sydney, it is now all tight like a tiger with the aid of a 8mm socket Note to self: Use my brain and double check stuff, and always keep that little tool kit in the car for when I have a brain fart
    • MBS206
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Oh, and as for everyone with their fuel economy changes, I switch between E10 and 98 in the company car. Even do when I had personal cars that could run on E10. You know what changed my fuel economy in any noticeable way? How I drove, and where I drove. Otherwise, say on full tanks of just back and forth from work only (So same trips, same sort of traffic), couldn't notice a difference that I can correlate to the type of fuel in use. In the current vehicle, that's over 42L of USABLE fuel. While 98 is all "more energy dense", it also has higher knock resistance as it takes more energy to get it to ignite too. The longer hydrocarbons, typically more tightly bound. So running the same ignition map, can also produce less power, if there isn't enough time to get it all burnt through properly, as yep, the flame propagation speed is different from lower octane fuel to higher (Higher has a lower flame propagation, due to the more tightly bound and harder to self ignite funs. This is also typically where, a vehicle that is designed purely to run on 91 (Whether it be E10 or normal 91) usually sees absolutely no real world difference in fuel economy for the normal man, woman, or dog.
    • MBS206
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      We've got some servos around me that have 91 with E10, 91 (no E10), 95, and 98. At those stations the change from 91 E10 to 91, is typically around 8c/L.   But lets not get started on the price of fuel in Oz. It's ridiculous. All the service stations around me, bar one, the price of fuel has been over the $2 mark per litre for the cheapest, 98 being around $2.45. That one service station is a CostCo, fuel from it comes from the same refineries, and makes no pitstops, it runs great, including the 98. In fact, I've had no issues on CostCo fuel, but plenty of issues at other stations!. The CostCo fuel, was $1.65 roughly this week for 94 with E10. $1.88 for 98. Servos directly across from it, $2.10 for 91 E10, and $2.48 for 98. The part I had to laugh at? If I drive multiple HOURS away from Brisbane, say out near Nanango, or Kingaroy, or even out to Goondiwindi, the price of their fuel, is the same as what it is at the CostCo... Oh, and that BP servo at Goondiwindi is HUGE and goes through epic turnover of fuel, so it's not sitting there for weeks going to shit. And what blows me away, my mate is one of the people who drives the Fuel Tanker all around QLD, delivering to all those places. At the same company his previous role was doing the "local haul" deliveries... Same truck, same driver, same pickup point it all comes from. So you tell me, how the hell it is 60c/L CHEAPER for fuel, when nearly all else is equal, except they require a B-Double to drive half a day out of Brisbane, and half a day back, every second day, compared to the delivery that can be under 30 minutes drive from the fuel pickup point... Not to mention, go five blocks down the road, and Ampol to Ampol will vary 30c/L... And I've had this conversation with my mate... The way it's priced, is just typical, pure and utter rubbish... He also does runs from Brisbane, to all over QLD, down to Newcastle, Sydney, Nowra, Melbourne, Geelong, and even out to parts of the NT depending on the companies needs. His main stuff is all the longer distance away from home for a few days at a time, then when he's back, he loves to just pickup extra shifts wherever he can in whichever truck, hence all the weird different places.   Oh, as for getting E10 into all the fuels in Australia... It was very quickly highlighted, that we don't have enough biomass available to use to make E10 sustainably like they require, and it would dramatically cut into our, and the worlds food chain supply...   I vote we all just start running on liquid methane gas... Plenty of that just getting tapped off at tips from underground decay... (Note, this is pure just stupid commenting. I could very easily highlight the reasons its not a good idea especially on scale...)
    • Murray_Calavera
      Questions on potential new purchase

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Am I correct in assuming that the R35's are getting the classic skyline haircut off the odometer?  Quick search on carsales, there are 33 08 and 09 GTR's for sale, only 2 of them have more then 100,000km's on them (116,075 and 110,000 respectively).  And somehow there are about 25 for sale with around 60,000kms? Looks like the classic skyline haircut to me =/
×
×
  • Create New...