Jump to content
SAU Community

How Much Is A Black Matte Respray?

ッ.jp

By ッ.jp,
in Exterior & Interior Styling

 Share

Recommended Posts

ッ.jp Rookie

ッ.jp

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

I am new to the world of cars and I will be purchasing a Nissan Skyline R33/34 around 2013 and I know I would like it in black matte (money permitting).

Is this something which can be achieved without losing an arm or a leg and without being dodgy?

Cheers for any help,

ッ.jp

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/399846-how-much-is-a-black-matte-respray/
Share on other sites
GTR-34A Mentor

GTR-34A

Posted
Posted

I talked to some painters recently regarding satin black and they said the cost of the paint is basically the same.. so im thinking you would be looking at a normal respray price, but if you were going with a matte black you wouldnt want it done cheaply! at least 5k i would think at a min.. but it would be a nightmare to maintain i would think...

The Bogan Grand Master

The Bogan

Posted
Posted

The maintenance of a matte paint is very high, a wrap is slightly cheaper but may last longer, you need to clean it straight away if a bird shit on it or a bug hits it or tree SAP gets on it as the acids will stain it.

You cannot use wash and wax car wash on it either.

I had the rear wing done in matte black, that lasted 2 weeks before I got the shits with it and gave it a good polish and wax, its now sort of flat black.

It does look smick for a while though, I estimate 2 weeks if the car gets driven regularly.

RusH_ Veteran

RusH_

Posted
Posted

The wrap above has been on my daily driven car for 2 years...

Is washed with Meguiars gold class car wash and was left outside un-garaged for a year through a brisbane summer and winter (not something i would suggest but is testament to the strength of the product)

You can use wash and wax on a wrap, but if its a matte colored wrap then naturally you wouldn't use a wash and wax or something that contains anything aimed at keeping your paint shiney, that would defeat the purpose. If your wrap went glossy or even satin from a matte finish then it sounds like you've used something you shouldn't have.

Yes you do need to clean it as quickly as possible as the vinyl 'can' stain, doesn't necessarily mean it will, but would you leave bird shit and tree sap on your paint? I don't think any regular enthusiast with decent paint would.

And in the end, if you stain/scratch/damage a panel, simply rip it off and have it re-wrapped in the same material....simple :)

The maintenance of a matte paint is very high, a wrap is slightly cheaper but may last longer, you need to clean it straight away if a bird shit on it or a bug hits it or tree SAP gets on it as the acids will stain it.

You cannot use wash and wax car wash on it either.

I had the rear wing done in matte black, that lasted 2 weeks before I got the shits with it and gave it a good polish and wax, its now sort of flat black.

It does look smick for a while though, I estimate 2 weeks if the car gets driven regularly.

alex182 Mentor

alex182

Posted
Posted

The maintenance of a matte paint is very high, a wrap is slightly cheaper but may last longer, you need to clean it straight away if a bird shit on it or a bug hits it or tree SAP gets on it as the acids will stain it.

You cannot use wash and wax car wash on it either.

I had the rear wing done in matte black, that lasted 2 weeks before I got the shits with it and gave it a good polish and wax, its now sort of flat black.

It does look smick for a while though, I estimate 2 weeks if the car gets driven regularly.

This. There's a matte black c63 5 minds away from my house. Its been parked in the street for the past couple of weeks, looks like really cheap chalkboard now

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

I talked to some painters recently regarding satin black and they said the cost of the paint is basically the same.. so im thinking you would be looking at a normal respray price, but if you were going with a matte black you wouldnt want it done cheaply! at least 5k i would think at a min.. but it would be a nightmare to maintain i would think...

Might be able to get it done for 5k if it's just panels. Doing a proper job, including removing all glass and trim and spraying inside, there's no way you'll get it done for below 6k. And let's be honest, getting a matte black paint job done without getting the insides/engine bay done would look pretty terrible.

GTR-34A Mentor

GTR-34A

Posted
Posted

Might be able to get it done for 5k if it's just panels. Doing a proper job, including removing all glass and trim and spraying inside, there's no way you'll get it done for below 6k. And let's be honest, getting a matte black paint job done without getting the insides/engine bay done would look pretty terrible.

yea thats what i meat, min 5k at an absolute... if i were serious about doing it, i would probably budget around the 10k mark, as if your going to do it, it would be worth doing it right...... the first time

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

Can I assume that if polish, even mild, were used on the wrap or paint it could smooth out the texture and thus, leave a patchy look?

Exactly. Matte paint works by intentionally having imperfections in the paint that refract the light, reducing shine. Polishing the paint would fill in those imperfections and leave you with, as you said, a patchy paint job.

The Bogan Grand Master

The Bogan

Posted
Posted

O

The wrap above has been on my daily driven car for 2 years...

Is washed with Meguiars gold class car wash and was left outside un-garaged for a year through a brisbane summer and winter (not something i would suggest but is testament to the strength of the product)

You can use wash and wax on a wrap, but if its a matte colored wrap then naturally you wouldn't use a wash and wax or something that contains anything aimed at keeping your paint shiney, that would defeat the purpose. If your wrap went glossy or even satin from a matte finish then it sounds like you've used something you shouldn't have.

Yes you do need to clean it as quickly as possible as the vinyl 'can' stain, doesn't necessarily mean it will, but would you leave bird shit and tree sap on your paint? I don't think any regular enthusiast with decent paint would.

And in the end, if you stain/scratch/damage a panel, simply rip it off and have it re-wrapped in the same material....simple :)

I was talking about matte paint not wrap, I say this in the first line of my post.

How much does a full wrap cost anyway, the best product I've seen has a life span of 5 yrs, OK if the car live in these garage and only come out on the weekend but from what I've seen they are lucky to get a couple of yrs out of it before it starts to look "tacky".

And beware the bird poo, a couple of hours is all that's needed to let the acids in it to start etching the paint/wrap.

ッ.jp Rookie

ッ.jp

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I basically want something that looks like this kind of black:

http://www.bodykits.com/Extreme-Dimensions/Body-Kits/Nissan-Skyline-Extreme-Dimensions-Duraflex-Fiberglass-GTR500-Conversion-Body-Kit-_-8-Piece-_-104157/614820/

The wrap black matte looks way too flat to me, or am I actually thinking of flat black?

I always thought it was glossy or matte, never this third 'flat'. To be honest the hood on that looks matte but the rest doesn't, even so I don't want something super reflective like most cars I see. Just not my personal taste. A little reflection is good, but only if it's a little, like in that picture.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • myrbgivesmeheadaches
      RB25DET NEO Cylinder Head

      By myrbgivesmeheadaches · Posted

      Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...