Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys,

Just got my rebuilt engine back from my machanic mate. After put evrything together, I have noticed coolant leaking out between tomei head gasket and the bottom block, on the driver side. Spoken to the mechanic said that it could be the head gasket faulty. He told me that head studs were tighten to about 87Nm. Note that the block and head have all machined. Any idea why is it leaking even before any pressure?

Thanks

Simon – what is the size of the studs? On ARP website, they recommend 62ft-bls (84Nm) for 10mm and 80ft-bls (108Nm). Hopefully under tightening is the cause. J.

It is only leaking on the driver side HG/block.

Jez –

Used Nissan gaskets kits and Tomei head gasket.

ARP main and head studs/bolts.

Pretty sure it is not coming out of the inlet manifold. I can see the coolant between the head gasket and the bottom block, along the block.

Is there any chance of faulty head gasket, block not machine properly?

Was it tightentend in stages? From the way you wrote about 87 i would intepret that as not much care taken. Could be any one of those in correct tightening procedure, poor machining , faulty gasket allthough i wouldnt put that as very likely espicialy with the tomei ones as they are not as sensitive to surface flatness levels as other metal ones.

Simon – what is the size of the studs? On ARP website, they recommend 62ft-bls (84Nm) for 10mm and 80ft-bls (108Nm). Hopefully under tightening is the cause. J.

It is only leaking on the driver side HG/block.

Used Nissan gaskets kits and Tomei head gasket.

ARP main and head studs/bolts.

Pretty sure it is not coming out of the inlet manifold. I can see the coolant between the head gasket and the bottom block, along the block.

Is there any chance of faulty head gasket, block not machine properly?

sorry double posted.

yes, it was tigthened in stages, followed the Nissan manual.

i personally don't think it is the HG faulty as you've said, This leaves the machining and tightening. Can anyone confirm the torque for the ARP head stud, hopefully they are under tightening, that ways i can just tightening it up to the required spec. Note the leaks is very little, even after puting about 14psi in the system.

The machining would really really average if a tomei head gasket is leaking on it as they tolerate pretty much same surface finish as the stock headgasket. Should always use a straight edge on head and block before putting on the gasket just to double check.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Put a fuel pressure gauge on it. Replace the turbos. Probably completely separate issues.
    • What copper washer do you guys use on the bleeder bolts? The existing one I have I had no idea where to find it in a local store, I did buy some online but that are only 1mm thick whereas my old one is 2mm+ thick and when I put the new washer out and squeeze the top radiator hose I can hear a bit of air but not with the old one. Does this matter? The new one doesn't leak, but the inner diameter is a bit loose whereas the old one threads on the bolt.
    • Howdy all, after being out a few weeks ago on a spirited drive in my GTR I have 2 issues that oddly have appeared at the same time. Whilst accelerating quickly through the gears all of a sudden i’ve lost power at the top of third gear (below redline around 6000rpm) for no obvious reason.    From that point onwards the car has been running rich on idle, won’t really rev under load without a ton of black smoke and the odd backfire, and dying as a pull up to a set of lights unless I keep the revs up around 1500rpm. In addition when shutting down the car that same night (I was 10 minutes from home) I noticed one of the turbos was significantly noisy on wind down when shutting off the engine. After letting the car cool down overnight it starts up fine, although once it gets to temp the revs start to creep up and down, the exhaust is darker than it should be and it also sounds like it’s running rich (fat note) I’ve put a new set of plugs in it - no change, the old plugs all seemed OK with two of them being somewhat richer/fueled up than the other 3 with 1 being borderline. I’ve smoked tested the intake system via the front of the Turbos, found a split vacuum hose going to the factory boost gauge sender, which I have since replaced.  Also found another leak on the gasket coming off the rear turbo outlet, have also replaced this. After fixing both of these leaks - still have the running rich issue. I’ve also tried another pair of AFM’s - no change here After pulling off the front turbo intake pipes, there is obvious shaft play in the front turbo, which now hisses loudly on light revvs although I can’t see why this would make the car run funny even under idle. I’m curious to know why it’s running rich before I potentially replace/rebuild turbos. The car is completely stock <50,000kms  other than an exhaust. Oil and coolant are all clear. I haven’t bothered with coil packs as it looks like they won’t be the issue due to condition of the plugs. Any help appreciated as I cry myself to sleep!
    • No probs at all. I used to love trying to dig up obscure info for those in need where possible going back 20+ years on SAU.  I did have another look and couldn't come up with any closer match. I'm leaning towards those skirts in your first pic are custom fitments, cut down/extended or from another car entirely and modded to fit an R34 sedan. I would've thought someone in Japan had them and taken a photo at some stage over the last 2 decades but there's nothing. Someone out there must know surely.
×
×
  • Create New...