Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

At the end of the day it just flows X amount of air through the compressor, how much of it the engine can't ingest gives you the boost figure. I couldn't run more than 23psi on the final tune with the GTX3071 with 1.06 rear, the compressor was way out of efficiency and it made less power from heating the air with no benefit.

I just slotted the GTX3076 with .82 rear in today so I will let you know the outcome Wednesday hopefully. I can already tell its much more responsive... :)

giddy up, will be watching for your results, one day mine will get tuned too to add to the GTX results. Just need a resonator and wait for a dyno to be available, they all booked out in brissy for winterinternationals and jamboree i think.

he first tuned it without E85 and made 288kw with a 0.82rear on about the same boost,

4300rpm to get 200kw so they are comparable , take 20kw off for the rear housing difference and its very close, take into account a slipping clutch was was noted, and they would be very close at that point.

so looks like the two are not far apart, and personally the sound of the 76 even in GTX form is awesome. :whistling:

Edited by SliverS2

I should be able to get an overlay of both graphs but I can feel the .82 is perfect, probably for either turbo, and as they have the same turbine, they should feel much the same on the road.

Mine with the stock airbox is still silent. :(

So you both will be running .82 ext. gates in the gtx3076? Interested to see the results.

Was mickos 98 tune with a low mount .82 internal gate? 200rwkw by 4300 is pretty responsive in my view. I know he was pumping a fair bit of boost, but that might have just been on e85.

a .63 housing on a gtx3076 is a little silly. you'd be much better off with a gtx3071 or a normal gt3076 as with the .63 you'll be limited to a fair bit less than the x76 compressor can flow.

still, not a bad graph considering. the advantage is when you want a little more you can simply bolt on a bigger housing and maybe a better manifold and make a fair bit more

You could try to up the gain on the boost controller and possibly end up with a slight boost spike. Looks like the boost is set to 18psi but doesn't quite control it near max torque (~45-5000rpm). I suspect the thing is VERY close to compressor surge while boosting and your getting some very slight symptoms from that. With a compressor bigger than a 76mm 56 trim and with a 0.63A/R it'd have to be close to surge.

You can't tell driveability or response from a dyno sheet. How does it FEEL coming onto boost? Does it actually make fast boost at 4000rpm? What are the mixtures like?

Edited by simpletool

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...