Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

considering it actually. But not really a G37 for me. i had a V35 before which i loved. but considering a V / G is not really an out and out sports car and the wast majority of people used them with no modifications and as a daily or cruiser. i guess having the Australian Navigation, everything in English, warranty from Nissan "hick Infinity sorry" does sort of makes sense.

but if the existing V36's see a big drop in price - which i am guess they will "if not already - look at car sales", i don't mind a low KM, V36 Coupe SP for high $20's makes a lot of sense, considering it's basically same bloody car.

I personally hope they bring the 3Lt Diesel model skyline cross over here, which i can market to my Mrs as a family car.

Word is that the G37 will be around the $100k mark on the road here new .... so I can't imagine any forum members on here being stupid enough/have the cash to shell out $100k, vs being able to buy plenty of Jp import ones about the place for $30k-$40k with nominal km on them.

Word is that the G37 will be around the $100k mark on the road here new .... so I can't imagine any forum members on here being stupid enough/have the cash to shell out $100k, vs being able to buy plenty of Jp import ones about the place for $30k-$40k with nominal km on them.

This ^

I love my V35, and i'm personally not a fan of the name Infiniti it just doesn't sound anywhere near as good as Nissan Skyline 350GT..

Unlikely. Your average businessman/middle age guy (who can afford a $100k car) does not want to have non-English buttons and not have full use of the stereo/Nav equipment. Also Nissan generally speaking won't touch imported V36s (and this is likely to become more pronounced one they actually sell them here). So in reality they still will be a very niche market. Plus their price is linked to the cost in Japan - so they will not suddenly go up in price, when people can keep bringing them in cheaper.

100k for the G37? I think Infiniti will have a hard time selling them here. Considering the 370z is only about 65k and when people start to find out Nissan is actually behind the brand..

maybe the next gen series depending if they turn out to be reliable, but Infiniti Aus will be trying to flog off old spec infinitis here for a few years that have already been available in overseas markets for the last 4 years, no thanks

I hope they come to their senses & make the manual gearbox an option

I BET will we not be able to import V36 soon, because we'll be able to buy an Australian G37 here. And they will kick up a stink about imports stealling there market.

^^ Nope - as long as a car isn't sold here in that year, you can import same models. But yes, as of 2013 we won't be able to bring in any more V36s if they do end up selling the G37 here.

It is just like you can bring in 1992 & 1993 R32GTRs from Japan, but you couldn't bring in and comply 1991 models (until they came under the 15/20 year old rule) as they were sold here in homologation for the touring car series.

Similarly there are early 2000 years of FD RX7s and Mitsi Evos that were sold here, so are ineligible to grey import (until they come under the 15/20 year rule)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...