Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Gtr - Time To Go The Next Step!

r0bstr_
 Share

Recommended Posts

r0bstr_ Enthusiast

r0bstr_

Posted
Posted

G'Day All,

Recently acquired a very nice 1999 R34 GTR V-spec (ex TPG34R) and the power bug has bitten already.

The GTR is already quite modified with some nice fruit and drives quite nice however, I'd like to get into the 550awhp+ league.

On the current conservative tune, it's pushing approx 450rwhp and 410awhp.

The internals of the RB26DETT as far as I'm aware are completely stock (disregarding the HKS V-CAM).

Do I go a big single? Do I keep the turbos I have? Do I upgrade to -10's?

Do I keep the same setup and just stroke to 2.8L courtesy of HKS?

I do like the responsiveness of the current setup however, if modifying further will in turn make the response a tad more laggy it really wouldnt bother me, as long as boost comes on by 3400rpm I'm happy (HKS V-CAM should make this happen even with a big single I've been told!)

I'd like to keep the car as reliable as possible so I'm thinking before doing any further modifications, I think it's wise to put some 'failsafe' gear on it such as a Sump Baffle, etc?

Opinions here would be great! <Insert usual stuff that goes wrong on 34 GTR's once you push the power I'm pushing+ here)

What should I be looking at next? All opinions are most welcome!

Current setup:

Internally stock RB26DETT (1999 R34 GTR V-Spec motor)

HKS V-CAM Step 1 Type A ($5600 alone and rare)

Garrett 2860r-5's with 1 bar wastegate

Sard 700cc injectors

Nismo Airflow metres

Apexi PowerFC w/hand controller

Tomei Xpreme Exhaust Manifold

Racepace custom 4" exhaust with Mines Style dump ($4000 & the pinnacle of exhaust systems)

Racepace custom 19" Row oil cooler with thermo

Racepace custom water / oil tank

Racepace silicon hoses

Racepace fitted 450lb springs

Racepace customer upper control arms

Whiteline heavyduty adjustable front sway bar

Whiteline heavyduty adjustable rear sway bar

HKS Cam Gear & timing belt

Carbon Fibre Twin Plate Clutch

Koyo Race Radiator

PHR Billet Radiator Support

ARC Radiator Shroud

19" VOLK TE37 Bronze 9.5" all round

275 / 30 / 19 Bridgestone RE01R Tyres with 70% + tread

DBA5000 two piece front rotors w/Ferodo DS2500 @ 90%

DBA400 Rear Rotors w/Ferodo DS2500 @ 90%

Project Mu handbrake shoes

Nismo Braided Brake Lines

Cusco Master Cylinder brace

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/401163-r34-gtr-time-to-go-the-next-step/
Share on other sites
MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted

You're not making the power you can with -5s, should be more like 500hp with those on a good setup. What boost are you running? Might need to just wind it up and retune.

Check the sticky to see what others are getting with -5s.

r0bstr_ Enthusiast

r0bstr_

Posted
  • Author
Posted

MrStabby,

Could you please link me to this sticky thread? I can't seem to find it.

Thanks.

You're not making the power you can with -5s, should be more like 500hp with those on a good setup. What boost are you running? Might need to just wind it up and retune.

Check the sticky to see what others are getting with -5s.

Ziller Rising Star

Ziller

Posted
Posted

How long will the internals last?? Go the 2.8 then wind up the boost and you will never look back :yes:

The unopened engine will probebly last longer that the built engine lol....The guts of them have survived over 100,000kms of abuse and are still running. You dont see to many built engine lasting that long.

rObstr are you kidding? just leave it for now! Just take it to a well known tuner to sort it out as is.

I think you need to cool down a bit buddy, plenty of time for that later when you learn more about these cars.

r0bstr_ Enthusiast

r0bstr_

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Haha.. what can I say.. HKS 2.8L, T04Z and external gate in an R34 GTR coupled with HKS V-CAM makes me wet.. just a little.

However, if I can push more boost and get a better tune (which I'm sure is very possible) out of my current setup keeping it within safe limits, then I'll do so.

Anybody have opinions on how to make my current setup even safer? What should I be replacing/adding to ensure complete reliability?

The unopened engine will probebly last longer that the built engine lol....The guts of them have survived over 100,000kms of abuse and are still running. You dont see to many built engine lasting that long.

rObstr are you kidding? just leave it for now! Just take it to a well known tuner to sort it out as is.

I think you need to cool down a bit buddy, plenty of time for that later when you learn more about these cars.

Edited by r0bstr_
choyda Veteran

choyda

Posted
Posted

Hi,

I have a similar setup (no VCAM) and getting around 480rwhp on -5's. I ditched the AFM's - running Vipec (MAP).

From a reliability perspective, not sure how much difference it makes moving away from AFM's.

Solid piping from airbox/pods may make a difference

What fuel pump are you running?

Damien

r0bstr_ Enthusiast

r0bstr_

Posted
  • Author
Posted

To be honest I'm not 100% sure.

From the sound of it: a single in-tank 044.. makes a little "squirt/push" sound every 4 seconds.. would that be right?

Hi,

I have a similar setup (no VCAM) and getting around 480rwhp on -5's. I ditched the AFM's - running Vipec (MAP).

From a reliability perspective, not sure how much difference it makes moving away from AFM's.

Solid piping from airbox/pods may make a difference

What fuel pump are you running?

Damien

r0bstr_ Enthusiast

r0bstr_

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Actually listening to Bosch 044 pumps on youtube, I don't think it's one of them..

Definately does not make that loud noise when ignition is on!

It makes a slight zim noise (can barely hear it) when I switch the ignition on for a split second then goes quiet.

On idle every 3-4 seconds you can hear it make the cool squirt noise from the rear.

Any ideas?

r0bstr_ Enthusiast

r0bstr_

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I've been told by the previous owner it's running 20psi however, I wouldn't really know how to confirm that.

Car doesn't have an EBC so I'm assuming it's has some type of boost control valve in the engine bay.. Any way to confirm?

choyda Veteran

choyda

Posted
Posted

EBC would be good. I'm running 18psi.

Not sure around your fuel pump. If you're cornering, surge tank for reliability with in and out tank pump?

Even the direct to battery wiring mod for the fuel pump?

wedge_r34gtr Mentor

wedge_r34gtr

Posted
Posted

Haha.. what can I say.. HKS 2.8L, T04Z and external gate in an R34 GTR coupled with HKS V-CAM makes me wet.. just a little.

Me Too!!!

I think your next investment should be an EBC. Its strange that the previous owners have spent $20k+ on support mods and yet no EBC has been installed.

Also, +1 for ditching the MAF's, go for a vipec/link or haltech MAP setup. Remember, a good safe tune will is the best thing you can do for relibility.

IMO if you plan to keep the car off the track, installing the above two items should get you ~500+rwhp, which is ample for the street. If the plan is to track the car, an upgrade the oil system is a must with an extended sump, baffels and new pump. This has been covered in mant topics so i won't go into further detail

gtr jet Veteran

gtr jet

Posted
Posted

If it was done at Racepace then it might have one of there manual boost controllers on it.

Give them a call, let them know your mods and see what they say.

Or try upgrading injectors and fuel pump and give E85 a go.

N1GTR Grand Master

N1GTR

Posted
Posted

PLEASE STOP NOW!!!!!

Don't take this as an attack or anything but it's looking like you don't know much about GTR's.

You've bought a tuned GTR from someone who had the sense to take it to the best workshop in Australia to get the work done and car taken care of. Don't go fu(king it up now!

If you want more from it, go back to Racepace and ask for a stage 2 engine. It's not cheap, but you'll be in the 400kw range with a mountain of area under the curve while being totally reliable and sedate to drive around town.

N1GTR Grand Master

N1GTR

Posted
Posted

I think your next investment should be an EBC. Its strange that the previous owners have spent $20k+ on support mods and yet no EBC has been installed.

Racepace don't use EBC's, it's not strange at all :)

r0bstr_ Enthusiast

r0bstr_

Posted
  • Author
Posted

N1GTR, I don't know the in's and out's of my GTR as I didn't build it - not GTR's in general.

Anyway, I've moved this vehicle to WA from VIC so Racepace isn't an option. There are still some very good workshops around here anyhow.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      V37 Radiator removal

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, this shouldn't be such a mission, but there were a few tricks so I thought I'd post up a DIY for it. This was on a Q50 Red Sport but I doubt any other V37 model is very different (maybe just less steps for the intake heat exchanger hoses) I pulled the radiator out to flush it because the car was running hot at the track, but obviously the same steps apply for changing a radiator for any reason including an upgrade. If you are removing the radiator, you of course need to drain and refill, so have 5+ litres of blue coolant ready. You don't need to drain the intake heat exchanger to remove the radiator but depending on your plans you may need a couple of litres for that as well. You will also need something to deal with the auto transmission lines, I used 2x 8mm rubber caps on the radiator side, and a short length of 8mm pipe on the car side.....unless you can block these lines quickly you will loose AT fluid and it may be enough to hurt the transmission if you don't refill it. Other than that....lets go... "First, jack up your car". Yes really, and put it safely on stands. If you are not confident doing that you need to give this job to a mechanic
    • MBS206
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By MBS206 · Posted

      If the forester is anything like our old 2007 GTB Liberty, I could near on run ling Long's and "rate them", as no matter what, it just hung to the road, even when abusing it in a hard launch in the wet, or throwing it at corners.
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      LOL, all of the CAI like Craig I just need to put a hole saw through my bumper Done and dusted, the car runs, which is nice, I'll take it for a spin when the weather clears up Just need to put the bumper back on for good
    • EndZee
      R33 Gts/-t Abs Module Wiring Schematic (not Gt-r)

      By EndZee · Posted

      Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • GTSBoy
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
×
×
  • Create New...