Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all

Jus wondering my old man is Gunna run his ute at the drags he's Gunna be using full slicks , but they said he needs front runners.

My question is can he use mine n my mates space saver as front runners ?

Might be a stupid question I'm jus wondering

Why would "they" say he has to run skinny front tyres?

That makes no sense.

He could, but they are rated for 80kph. Is he intending on running a 23 second quarter?

While I'm sure they could handle more than 80kph, as a substitute for a "front runner" I personally think it's a completely stupid idea. Your old man has a ute that's running a slick rear, and I assume fast times as "they" said he has to run front runners, yet he's looking at cheaping out by using some space savers?

Seriously, have the school holidays started already?

if you are running proper drag slicks then you need to run 'front runners', which are different to space saver tyres. front runners are a cross ply tyre (as are drag slicks) and the space savers are a radial. all dragways will require you to run front runners with drag slicks. from what i gather, with radial tyres on the front the car will handle poorly at speed because the front tyres handle differently to the rears.

VL owners used to use Monaro space savers but they have since been banned by ANDRA.

"Just letting others know that the use of space saver wheels is now prohibited by ANDRA.

It doesnt matter if you have proper drag racing front runners on them, the wheels are not allowed to be used.

ANDRA reckon they spoke to GM and GM said the wheels are not safe over 80kph.

Space Saver/Emergency Spare Wheels Deemed Unsafe

Friday, 31 July 2009 - Posted by Rob Sharp

(ANDRA Head Office)

ANDRA has confirmed that a ban has been placed on Space Saver/Emergency wheels and tyres effective immediately. ANDRA Officials as well as track staff have been briefed to inform competitors and, if required, make the appropriate Log Book entry.

The safety amendment to the current ANDRA Rules on wheels and tyres is as follows –

4.5.2 Tyres

Tyres must be considered free of defects prior to any run. All treaded tyres must have a minimum tread depth of 1.6mm (1/16 inch). In classes with tyre width limits, the tread surface will be measured in all cases. All vehicles exceeding 160 mph (255 kph) are required to use tyres specifically built for drag racing use. Only dragsters, altereds and motorcycles may use motorcycle tyres. Cars quicker than 12.50 (1/4 mile)/8.00 (1/8 mile) using independent front suspension and cross-ply rear slicks are not permitted to use radial front tyres. Metal valve caps are required on all wheels. Retreading of any tyre on any vehicle quicker than 12.50 (1/4 mile)/8.00 (1/8 mile) or unsafe modification of racing tyres is not permitted. The use of speed limited tyres manufactured for space saver / emergency spare rims is prohibited.

4.5.3 Wheels

Hub-caps and clip-on trims must be removed during all competition. Scrutineers may check for loose wheel nuts and cracked or damaged wheels. Each car must be fitted with automotive type wheels with a minimum diameter of 12 inches (304.8mm) unless class regulations permit otherwise. Rim width for sedans is a minimum of 3 inches (76.2mm). The use of automotive wire wheels and centre-lock devices is restricted to cars on which they were originally fitted. Automotive type wire wheels or motorcycle wheels are prohibited on vehicles in Altered classes. The use of speed limited rims known as ‘space saver’ or an emergency spare is prohibited. Each wheel stud must protrude past the outer face of the wheel by a distance no less than the diameter of the stud used. The thread engagement on all wheel studs to the lug nut must be equivalent to or greater than the diameter of the stud. Length of the stud does not determine legality, length of engagement between the stud and hex portion of the lug determines legality. (eg. A 7/16-inch stud must be completely engaged through the threads in the hex portion of the lug nut a minimum of 7/16-inch). All cars quicker than 11.00 (1/4 mile)/7.00 (1/8 mile) must be fitted with open ended wheel nuts. Factory alloy wheels may use original wheel nuts/studs. Motorcycle or lightweight racing wheels must use spokes with a minimum diameter of 1/8 inch (3.2mm), properly cross laced to provide maximum strength. All spoke holes in hub and rim must be used.

For further information email [email protected]

www.andra.com.au "

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No. GKTech arms have spherical bearings in them. No bushes. You will not need bushes for those arms. The sphericals are a bit of a maintenance nightmare. I have replaced all of mine several times in the 5 or so years I've had them, and I have the arms out regularly to clean and lube the balls. Worth the pain on an R32, because the standard arm design is trash. If you need the camber adjustment, there are other options (than the GKTech ones), although I would still lean towards and prefer the GKTech ones, even with the maintenance load of the sphericals. The caster adjustment is also highly valuable, allowing for setting the car up to drive straight. There are a million options for these, including the GKTech ones. I've had Tein rods on mine for 20 years and the balls are much less trouble in that location. Never given me a moment's pain. All positives, no negatives. I consider them compulsory.
    • Lol yeah I ordered the clips mentioned and as far as the amayama diagrams go i think thats all I'll need. Fogured id ask, sometimes people's first hand experience doesnt always match up to diagrams haha, i guess I'll wing it and worse comes to worse I'll just deal with it as I go
    • Thanks for all that information I appreciate it. To answer your questions: - Yep that's what I mean. These guys are professional painters to so I must be missing something. It's a bit hard to explain. - With the primer landing on clearcoat, I make sure that the surrounding clearcoat is scuffed to 240 grit as my epoxy primer says that I only need to sand the area to 240 grit. - Yeah so similar to the first question, assuming that the paint landed on the unscuffed clearcoat because I've seen that happen. - Yep I want to prep the surface in that order. Only reason because epoxy primer will protect it from rust and I need that atm with this crappy Sydney weather. I think I was worried about time, if I try to put the filler down but screw it up somehow and I don't have time to sand it off and reapply it then need to put primer later that it might start to rust again so I wanted to apply the primer as quick as possible to not deal with rust.  - I just deleted some answers, I just realised after watching a video and what you said about looking at the data sheet, that I need to read the data sheet on the specific filler I'm using. It's possible now that I put epoxy primer first was a waste of time and need to go to bare metal lol
    • I did. I went to a suspension guy and he told me because I don't have adjustable camber arms it's the reason why my car veers towards the left if I take my hands off the wheel but if I drive my other every day car and take my hands off the steering wheel it goes completely straight. I think it's common with Skyline's. In order to fix the problem, I likely need gktech camber arms then nismo bushes since I have poly bushes atm, then a wheel alignment after that. With my car if I take my hands off the steering wheel on a really bumpy road before stopping at a light I have to hold my steering wheel somewhat tight otherwise my car will legit just go completely in the other direction quite quickly and I'll slam into something lol instead of stopping straight. I Believe this YouTuber had the same issue and fixed it with gktech arms. At timestmap 6:05 he talks about how the car doesn't veer anymore after installing these arms.  
    • hello! does anyone have a schematic that shows how to test the blower motor resistor for the vac system? i believe the part# is 27761-15U00. I think the resistor is toast, but would like to be able to test it somehow before i embark on the journey to find a new one. cheers! 27761-15U00
×
×
  • Create New...