Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 66
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

  • 3 weeks later...

Update...

Driver and passenger seatbelts - $35 Drivers side SOLD, Passenger $15

Rear wiper with motor - $5 SOLD

Hood lining with interior lights and sun visors - $50 Can separate. Sun visors sold. $30 for the lining and lights.

Centre console with decent hand brake cover - $40

Glove box - $25

Door trims both sides - Available again. $40ea or $60 for both

Rear seat side trims - $20 for both SOLD

Heater, A/C, fan unit. (under dash). Has had the A/C lines chopped but heater core and fan are good. - $50 can sell just the bits you want.

A pillar trims - $10

Climate control module - SOLD

Adding the rear quarter window trims. $40 for both.

post-10715-0-98612600-1342525505_thumb.jpg

also still got driver side kick panel. $15

Hey mate do you have the ash tray from the dash?

Yes I do however I cut the back out of it for the turbo timer when I used to have one, Looks 100% from the front. $10 and it's yours.

They'll fit the same. Dunno if you have the shiny finish or the elephant scrotum finish lol Pretty sure mine is the shiny finish.

If you're not in melbourne and not willing to pick up I won't be able to post until after WTAC in 3 weeks when I have time to pack things up and post.

thanks guys.

Hey bud - got passenger side dash vent?

No sorry but my mate might have one. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/user/79141-rossib/

Got a good condition parcel shelf brake light?

No sorry. They're only for gay aussie compliance?

centre vent was smashed when the roll cage builder went to pull it out. Ash tray I think is spoken for but hasn't been picked up yet. I'll give him a few days. I'll get back to you if he doesn't grab it.

Ash tray sold. Sorry Kris. My other mate is going to be wrecking his 32 GTS4 so he might have one. PM him. rossib is his user name

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty this is your red flag. In MAP based ECU's the Manifold pressure X RPM calculation is how the engine knows it is actually...running/going through ANY load. You are confusing the term 'base map' with your base VE/Fuel table. When most people say 'base map' they mean the stock entire tune shipped with the ECU, hopefully aimed at a specific car/setup to use as a base for beginning to tune your specific car. Haltech has a lot of documentation (or at least they used to, I expect it to be better now). Read it voraciously.
    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
×
×
  • Create New...