Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R32 GTST, RB20.

Stock AFM, stock ECU.

TD06-20G

I've just finished installing Nismo 550cc injectors (to suit GTR) as well as wired in the GTR resistor pack.

Before I tow it to my tuner to have a nistune installed and tuned, if I try to start the car will it run on idle?

I just want to make sure there are no fuel leaks and I have wired up the injectors correctly.

Not looking to drive the car just want it to idle..

Car will run very rich (double the fuel it would normally get with the stockers), the spark plugs are guaranteed to be fouled. Depending on the lag time of the Nismo's vs stock injectors, it might not even idle.

It will sit and idle fine mate, you can even rev it a bit as long s you don't get on boost.

Its not till it gets under load it will flood.. I wouldn't recommend driving it. I actually tried driving mine with 650s ,I got around the block before the plugs started to foul, it was spluttering alot and I barely got it home after that..If your mechanic is less than a km away and you drove very slowly, you would make it..

It will sit and idle fine mate, you can even rev it a bit as long s you don't get on boost.

Its not till it gets under load it will flood.. I wouldn't recommend driving it. I actually tried driving mine with 650s ,I got around the block before the plugs started to foul, it was spluttering alot and I barely got it home after that..If your mechanic lives less than a km away and you drove very slowly, you would make it..

i agree , it cant hurt to make sure its at least idling before going for a tune otherwise you could be paying extra for the tuner to sort out an idle issue if it doesn't when you get it there..

i started mine just cause im a curious bugger and was actually surprised at how well it did idle, i got overconfident and tried to drive it...didnt work :no:

No idea, seemed like the easiest way to get to the injectors and I had to pull the loom out to modify.

Gave me room to replace both rocker cover gaskets and check vacuum lines (worn/old)

No biggie

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...