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I have installed a Midori digital g-sensor on my BNR32 as my OEM G-sensor was stuffed. It looks to be the same item as the Do-Luck but rebadged (but I could be wrong). It has the same casing etc and is plug and play. Comes with a bracket to mount in the exact location as the OEM item. i bought it through Jessie Streeter but can't remember exact price.

i haven't done any real testing as of yet, and as my OEM G-sensor was stuffed, doubt that it would be a good comparison anyway.

Hadn't heard of it before, and I find it very had to believe it will give you a better outcome than Paul Ruzic's controller - which has the advantages of more tuning options and a digital display.

Unless of course your gsensor is dead, in which case as a replacement at about 1/10th the cost of nissan, it would make great sense.

Ultimately, a g-sensor change, or any attessa controller, will only allow you to tweak the hardware you already have. And the basic controllers are still very effective at that.

BTW I'd also take the comments in the article with a grain of salt. For example, an attessa controller, and attessa for that matter, does absolutely nothing braking in a straight line - and yet this controller apparently made the car "more planted under brakes"/

How much better is this going to be over say a torque controller with the manual adjustment controller?

obviously its plug and play where as the controller has to be wired in and manually adjusted rather than a replacement for the OEM G sensor.

they seem to be a good price from that site, however would have to talk to Streeter.

CHeers

I thought the ATTESA and ABS were connected in terms of wiring/input. If ABS then does take input from the G-Sensor - an uprated sensor could indeed improve ABS performance.

If they are not connected/take inputs then obviously not possible.

The above aside, you still get better gains from making modifications to the transfer case in regards to benefits/drive outta corners.

Racepace say on a scale (of say 100%) - you get 30% gains from a electronic adjustments (controllers etc) and 70% from mechanical (actual transfer case).

I can certainly say mine had a lot of drive out of corners compared to other 33's I've been in.

I never got around to playing with the controller I have (never installed it). Would've been good if i did and see if the above statement was accurate.

I thought the ATTESA and ABS were connected in terms of wiring/input. If ABS then does take input from the G-Sensor - an uprated sensor could indeed improve ABS performance.

If they are not connected/take inputs then obviously not possible.

The above aside, you still get better gains from making modifications to the transfer case in regards to benefits/drive outta corners.

Racepace say on a scale (of say 100%) - you get 30% gains from a electronic adjustments (controllers etc) and 70% from mechanical (actual transfer case).

I can certainly say mine had a lot of drive out of corners compared to other 33's I've been in.

I never got around to playing with the controller I have (never installed it). Would've been good if i did and see if the above statement was accurate.

Great point!

I would be very keen to see this data or get your thoughts on it once controller installed.

R31 Nismoid - what item do you have, the transfer case replacement or just a controller??

Cheers

Well, under braking it sends power to the front - so yes it does something, and if it sends more power to the front than before then I'm sure you would feel that as a more "planted feel". Just saying.

out of interest, how much power do you think is being fed to the wheels under braking?

That "review" was anything but credible, but hey, there is nothing like a famous developer's name and some internet hype to get some viral marketing, right?

A transfer case rebuild will cost $1-2k depending on how bad the existing case is, plus remove and replace and fluids. Yes it can make an excellent different, particulary if the old one is in poor shape. It however also offers no adjustability like the controllers do.

I think a controller for a couple of hundred bucks is the way to go for most street users, unless you have too much money to spend. Once you talk about maximum performance for track etc it is a different story - I would (and did) do both a rebuild and a controller.

You can get controllers on ebay from $90 so it is a cheap bet: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GTR-Torque-Split-Controller-TSC-GTS4-GTS-4-RB26-Stagea-/110896719839?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19d1f5a7df

out of interest, how much power do you think is being fed to the wheels under braking?

NFI mate - but it would have to be miniscule amounts, so not to affect braking.

I probably agree with you that this Tarzan g-sensor may not make such a difference afterall............now, lets see what this controller sells for :rolleyes:

A transfer case rebuild will cost $1-2k depending on how bad the existing case is, plus remove and replace and fluids. Yes it can make an excellent different, particulary if the old one is in poor shape. It however also offers no adjustability like the controllers do.

Out of curiosity - when they rebuild the Transfer Case what do they do to increase/speed up torque transfer to the front - do they re-adjust clutch packs so they grab earlier then they otherwise would?

the simple answer is they increase the preload by adding more or thicker clutch plates, similar to the preload mods on a mechanical diff.

I'm sure there is much more science to it in getting it right, in fact the first rebuild i had done was a disaster and left me with a broken xfer case chain (if you've seen it, you'll understand just how big a f**k up that must have been) and a rwd GTR to do Targa Tasmania in.

You can get controllers on ebay from $90 so it is a cheap bet: http://www.ebay.com....=item19d1f5a7df

My car came with this unit installed, and I have NFI what it does. I've mucked around with the settings and never really found any difference. What's it supposed to be doing? How do I know it works? And what's the best setting for track use?

Cheers!

Best way would be to become as familiar with the car as you can, and then change it and see. Two ends of the dial would be a good starting point to notice said difference :)

If there is more drive being sent up front, assuming 10 on the dial being max, you'll notice it when you feel the front end pulling you harder out of a corner.

What the best setting is, will depend on you and the car. Trial/error.

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