Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got a 1996 R33 GTST Automatic which im wrecking. Car had 147,000km showing on the odometer. All parts are in good working condition unless otherwise stated.

RB25DET Complete engine including all ancillaries. Was running fine before the car was involved in an accident. Only modifications were a 3" turbo back exhaust and pod filter. Was running through an automatic transmission. $1350

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020474.jpg

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020475.jpg

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020476.jpg

Automatic transmission with torque converter and flex plate. Perfect working condition. - $150

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020473.jpg

Engine wiring loom and computer - $220

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020456.jpg

Rear subframe with diif / axels / Hubs / Hicas / Suspension - $250

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020485.jpg

Boot lid with series 2 spoiler - $120

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020465.jpg

Standard wheels. 2 tyres are in as new condition, 2 tyres are it the wear indicators - $200

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020467.jpg

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020466.jpg

3" Catback exhaust. Has small hole where pipe meets muffle at the end, easily repaired - $70

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020483.jpg

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020484.jpg

Factory plastic side skirts. Have some scratches on the underneath of the passenger side and a crack at the end of the drivers side - $100

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020468.jpg

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020470.jpg

Left and right rear tail lights - $30 each

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020461.jpg

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020460.jpg

Rear bar. Paint has peeled off on corner of passenger side - $80

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020452.jpg

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020453.jpg

Drivers side headlight. Plastic lens has a little fatigue but works perfect. - $150

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020451.jpg

Series 2 interior dash surround - $100

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020444.jpg

Series 2 steering wheel. Airbag center removed. - $60

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020440.jpg

Factory side mount intercooler and piping. Everything included. - $80

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020438.jpg

Front and rear stock suspension struts - $150

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020436.jpg

Power steering rack - $100

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020434.jpg

BM44 Brake master cylinder with booster - $80

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020432.jpg

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020433.jpg

Drivers side power window switches and surround - $120

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020430.jpg

Climate control unit - $40

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020428.jpg

Passenger seat - $70

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020426.jpg

Rear seats - $70

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020425.jpg

Drivers door. Has small area where paint has bubbled. Doesn't include lock or door card - $50

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020421.jpg

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020423.jpg

Passenger door. Doesn't include lock, door card or mirror - $50

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020419.jpg

Series 2 interior door cards and back sides - $50

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020417.jpg

Drivers side front fender - $70

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020416.jpg

Passengers side front fender - $70

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020413.jpg

Front brakes. Good working condition, pads and disks are about 50% worn. - $250

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020407.jpg

Rear brakes. Good working condition, pads are low and disks may need machining before use - $150

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020406.jpg

Complete lock set. Ignition, doors and boot locks with original skyline key - $150

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020403.jpg

Passenger window switch - $30

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020010.jpg

Space saver spare wheel - $50

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020006.jpg

Front hubs. 5 stud. $60

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1010949.jpg

Castor rods with urethane bushes - $30 each

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1010934.jpg

Radiator. Aftermarket of somesort. In as new condition. - $100

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1010937.jpg

Aircon condensor. As new condition.- $50

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1010935.jpg

Airbag dashpad. - $100

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1010930.jpg

Automatic selector - $40

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020458.jpg

Pioneer headunit and 4 channel amp - $150

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020454.jpg

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020471.jpg

Factory jack to fit in boot. - $40

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020462.jpg

Lower control arms / LCA's. - $80 each

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/P1020482.jpg

Parts available for pick-up in Emerald anytime or at Chadstone during weekdays. Will post suitable items at buyers expense. Contact me here in this thread or PM if interested in any part or want more information.

hey mate, bit confused, your car was auto but the rad is for a manual? how did the gear box lines connect to it? i thought it was my lucky day then! anyway let me know and i might be interested! cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...