Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This thread brings great sadness to me, its like hearing about animals being abused, seriously dont do this to are beloved RB's , they deserve more than this...

if you cant afford to do it right, then please go buy a magna or falcon shit box, dont bring shame to our RB's... :unsure:

this is a nightmare...

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Not all cheap turbos are bad, without even thinking Kandos and hypergears are proven performers without the price tag.

as with most things of a "cheap" nature it can be one or a mix of things you have mentioned that cause premature failure. the failure can range from oh my turbos making a funny noise to why is there no boost, right up to i think a piston just shot through the side of my block.

From what I have seen, the particularly bad ebay turbos are not balanced (or balanced at a low rpm to claim a low failure rate) - which is not a hard thing to do and is essential to ensure to the functionality and longevity of a turbo. you simply take it to a turbo shop and they attach it to a manifold in store and spin it right up to it's max rpm to ensure it spins freely and centered. if it is unbalanced they can cut small bits from the inducer or exducer to ensure it i within 0.00000 something of a gram off weight.

all the more mid range to expensive turbos will have slight bits of metal shaved off, thats not a manufacturing fault. If it is unbalanced with a cheap material or a cheap bearing, at a high rpm the fins start rubbing against the housing and anything from some of that dust getting sucked into the motor to a single fin to the entire set of blades flying off at crazy speeds can happen extremely easily.

Some other cheap exhaust housings leave large amounts of space between the exducer and the housing to mask this problem as well as other things and that causes positive boost to come on really late and gives you a useless powerband.

makes sense, one other thing I've seen is the castings of the housings are quite thick, i'm thinking to avoid failures due to core shift, that causes flow problems, you can fix a lot of it, but there's only so many places you can reach with a die grinder. luckily you can open up the waste gate easily.

what else needs to be done to get these going well?

Several issues…

A turbo will spin over 100,000rpm. In some cases over 150,000rpm. Poor balancing or tolerances of parts will result in cartridge failures

Then there is heat. Poor quality metal/material that is used in a lot of copy turbos, is just that – poor quality. Put 600 degrees through the exhaust housing, this heat is obviously transferred to the turbo core/bearings, which overtime fatigue can set in.

And then there are the wheels… They are using ‘70s & ‘80s wheels from the T04… Garrett GT wheels for example have undergone significant redevelopment since their earlier versions so offer better flow and spool for a given target, all of which improves performance.

Then move onto the seals and surfaces not being perfect. Another failure point over time.

The main issue with a lot of the China turbos is the consistency. 10 turbos might be fine, 2 maybe not so.

If you happen to purchase one of the 2/10 that fails after 1,000kms, even 5,000kms – You’ve gotta pull the setup apart, buy another turbo. So you are already behind as it’s now cost you double (new turbo), and it’s also cost you time to replace it all.

The poor man pays twice – Seeing it more and more these days here on SAU unfortunately.

All well and good for a new product to come along and it be tested by a few people… Unless you can afford to do this however, spend the money on known products first.

awesome. to me it initially looked as if there wasn't a constructive argument going on. but it's good to see the wealth of knowledge of the users of this forum has come out.

makes sense that you get what you pay for. thanks for the information.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...