Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hay guys i dont got no skylines but looking at upgrading my brakes on my 180sx :) its 4 stud and iam thinking of getting 300zx rotors from DBA pre drilled to 4 stud get some z32 calipers at the front and maybe Z32 master cylinder, i still dont know weather its a benifit to change the master cylinder when i do a brake upgrade :D

also should i be doing anything with the back? rotors or just put some good pads?

will doing this stuff up my ABS system if any one can tell me :rofl:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/40299-got-brakes/page/2/#findComment-831021
Share on other sites

thanks geoff, rang them today and got a quote for slotted fronts, plain rears and lucas pads (he says they're better than bendix ultimates and have 10degree higher max temp), all for $800 supplied, $920 fitted, but i want to spray my calipers so ill just fit myself ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/40299-got-brakes/page/2/#findComment-833711
Share on other sites

nah your master cylinder will be fine dude

Ummmm i dont think so.......not familiar with a 180s braking system however i would assume that changing your brake calipers and leaving the exsisting mastercylinder would require some sort of proportioning valve

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/40299-got-brakes/page/2/#findComment-834138
Share on other sites

thanks geoff, rang them today and got a quote for slotted fronts, plain rears and lucas pads (he says they're better than bendix ultimates and have 10degree higher max temp), all for $800 supplied, $920 fitted, but i want to spray my calipers so ill just fit myself :(
Great to hear, although I am no fan of bendix, and have no experience with lucas, but am totally sold on the racebrakes stuff.

With the spraying, cleaning is the key element, as well as laying up a number of coats, but I then used a gas torch to melt in the paint as some cleaners will strip the VHT off onto the driveway.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/40299-got-brakes/page/2/#findComment-834155
Share on other sites

racebrakes.. u mean lalor brake n clutch LOL

yer well i probably wont spray my calipers now, i cbf, ill wait til the holidays to do it properly and research into what paint to use etc, i wanna do em black just a nice gloss black so i guess that'd be one of the easiest colours to find

so yer off to lalor brake and clutch soon to get em to fit my new brake system :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/40299-got-brakes/page/2/#findComment-834194
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...