Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Plenty of threads on boost controllers, but nothing on the new Jap spec EVC6, and nothing comparing these two specifically, so figured I'd give this a crack.

I need a boost controller for my Stagea. ECU will be a HKS Fcon V Pro, turbo just a high flow. I've already upgraded fuel pump and an adjustable FPR. I'm slowly doing all the supporting mods before I get the high flow and tune the ECU, and one of those is the boost controller.

I'm looking at the HKS EVC6 and the Turbosmart EBoost 2. Main thing is that it does a good job and is relatively easy to setup. I like the fact that I can tune boost by RPM or speed on the EVC using EasyWriter, but I'm not sure how practical that is. Just seems to cater for more expansion later.

I don't currently have a boost gauge.

Anyone got experience with one or both of these? Any particular issues with the solenoid and the actual boost control?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/403074-hks-evc6-vs-turbosmart-eboost-2/
Share on other sites

go the evc6, I had a turbosmart eboost and it was to slow to catch how fast the car would come on boost and would go into warning mode and turn off boost, I tried everything I could then gave it to CRD and still would do it, so I put a HKS EVC in and straight away it worked properly and no more issues

I chose an EVC 5 as I have read they are reliable

And a couple of mates swear by them.... The EVC 6 is very similar, the stepper motor is smaller, you get a pretty colour screen and I think 3 or 4 boost settings..... I find it hard to justify the extra $200 for little....

BUT, haven't really had a proper experience, my car is on the dyno now, tuner is happy, so I assume it's all good

Thanks for the feedback guys.

So am I correct in thinking so far the EVC is the better unit, and the stepper motor on the EVC is better than the solenoid on the eboost2?

I'll have another look and see if I want (and can justify) the extra features of the 6.

eBoost is overpriced. It just uses a pretty typical valve, similar to MAC valves. I wouldn't be surprised if it's the same thing just with eBoost stickers all over it. Have a look on eBay and you'll see similar yumcha spec boost controllers using identical valves. Even the PowerFC boost kit uses the same valve (I owned one so I can comment) I thought it wasn't that great for the money, honestly a turbotech ball bearing valve could have done the same job, my friend with the Blitz Dual Solenoid would hold boost flatter then the PowerFC boost kit could ever.

For the same money get a Blitz Dual Solenoid one OR like you mentioned baller spec EVC6 with a stepper motor

See the resemblance?

eBoost Solenoid

icon_eb2solenoid.jpg

MAC Valve

mac-2.jpg

YUMCHA eBay Spec EBC

8a8a_35.JPG

PowerFC Boost Kit

boost%20kit.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There are black hose clamps as well if you care. Plazmaman for example sells some: https://plazmaman.com/product/black-hose-clamps-premium-quality-stainless-breeze/
    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
×
×
  • Create New...