Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was watching the drifting going on at Eastern creek last night , and i saw a r33 skyline non turbo drifting he did have alot of trouble with his single spinner, but towards the end he got alot better, he also stock suspension by the looks of it.

I was thinking about throwing on some coil overs and a turbo r33 lsd heard the gear ratios were the same.

Anyone ever installed the GTST LSD on a n/a? does it handle alot better?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/403218-installing-lsd-on-na-r33/
Share on other sites

The ratios are different, the GTST diff has a longer ratio.

Also the stock diff if a viscous diff which pretty much all of them are worn out and will just single peg all day long. you could shim it to lock it a bit more. there is a thread in the DIY section about it people have had good results

What car are you planning to do this with?

If you have a 33 ratios are the same for NA or turbo but it depends on if you get an auto or manual diff.

If you're planning it for a 31 which is the only car you have listed then it's a lot more involved.

If Jap Spec IRS They run an R200 Longnose diff which isn't just a simple swap. You'd probably need to do the whole subframe etc with custom mounts, custom tailshaft etc.

If Aus spec live axle you will need to do the same as the Aus specs run a Borg Warner diff which is entirely different. Kaaz offer an LSD centre for these diffs or you could use a cone type LSD out of a Sillhouette though I don't think they are particularly strong.

Haha i just edited that part of my profile as you were posting, Yeah i have a r33 non turbo. i think the auto diffs have a 4.3 something ratio, which is higher then the manual ones.

Yep autos are 4:3, manuals 4:1

If your car already has an LSD shimming it is your cheapest option. If it's a single spinner then you'll need to source an LSD centre and probably shim it.

If you post your VIN in the VINS you want fasted thread in General automotive discussion it'll tell you if your car is a GTS25/S which will have an LSD or just a normal natro which won't.

  • 1 month later...
  • 3 months later...

hey everyone. rather than starting my own thread and asking the same thing. i have a 1995 r33 gts25 and im wondering if i have an lsd... im going to jack the car up (rear) in a minute and give it a rev but is this definate... cause what if its warn and only one spins? how much does shimming a diff cost?

  • 2 weeks later...

I also have a R33 S1 and well looks like there are a few of us that are in the same boat. Now which do you guys think is best? shim or just solid weld the diff? Why do you prefer the weld or the shim? and what prices would one expect to pay to get the diff welded or shimed? I do not know much about a diff except how it operates. Any advice would help

Shimming costs more and retains some form of LSD depending how "tight" you go. Welding it is as simple as well welding the spider gears lol.

Get a mate that's handy with a welder and give him a bottle of spirits (as payment), down side is its illegal and very easy to see/hear on the street.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...