Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm looking at getting a short shifter, but I can't seem to find a place to get them in Sydney (I'm probably not looking hard enough, but I've done my fair share of google searching lol)

Anyone know where I can get one for my r34 GT-T? I heard the japspeed short shifter kit was good, lots of guides on how to install it too- any others and where to buy them? I have no idea where to get the japspeed one though, because everytime I search it up, it always takes me to a UK site.

thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/403261-short-shifter-advice/
Share on other sites

ha, it's in the throw not the lever length

yeh that's what i was thinking. a short shifter usually has the same length as the original shifter right? The difference is the pivot point which reduces the throw.

Anyways, anybody know where I can get one?

eBay, just jap. Lots of places. I had a spare so I made my own. Just cut the threaded part off, got rid of the rubber filled top section and welded the threaded part to the inner section of the shifter. I wanted a solid shifter with a bit less length so pretty happy with it

short shifter has the same length lever but needs to be moved a shorter distance to select gears

Yeah pretty much this. I've seen the eBay ones and they basically raise the pivot point so less throw is needed

The way I described above doesn't decrease the throw just decreases the length of the shifter. Gives the illusion of a shorter throw basically

Yeah pretty much this. I've seen the eBay ones and they basically raise the pivot point so less throw is needed

The way I described above doesn't decrease the throw just decreases the length of the shifter. Gives the illusion of a shorter throw basically

so a shortened factory shifter would serve the same purpose (?) as the pivot point would be difficult (at best) to change?

  • 5 years later...

In layman's term. The gear/shifter handle lenght is relatively the same as stock, but the movement required to change a gear is less than a stock. Cutting the lever doesn' t mean its a short shift it just its a short lever same shift.
I mighy be wrong in the following but I belive the 34 Gtr comes with one and the Tomei Chaser too comes with a short shift.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...