Jump to content
SAU Community

Stock Radiator Finally Blew.. Which Ebay Ones Are Recommended? Lol


Recommended Posts

as the title says, yes i blew my radiator tonight.

Just having a look at ebay for a aluminum one... there are so many and all at different prices.. all look dodgy to me. lol.

anyone bought one off ebay, and can recommend a radiator brand/seller?

for an r32 gtst.

thanks.

I was recommended ASI as well, but they didn't have mine in stock when I needed it (kinda urgent).

I ended up grabbing a random eBay job for $180 that I could pick up an pay cash for.

Had it for several months now and has been fine.

I did discover I had to change my thermostat too, but that was a separate issue (I'd now recommend doing radiator, hoses and thermostat all in one hit - works out much easier.)

I have a 52mm ASI in my r32 gtst. It did not fit with the factory fan. (had to fit thermo fans in)

Go for the stock size ASI radiator or find a 52mm rad which will fit (if you want larger than stock)

for ease of fitment it would be easier to go for a stock replacement style radiator, at least you will be able to refit your stock engine fan and shroud, doable for under $300 depending on brand

This might be alright: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Dual-core-aluminum-radiator-shroud-fan-skyline-R32-/290719928455

I had the same issue, but ended up getting new tanks put on the old radiator as the rest of it was in good condition and I didn't want to change the fan. Was relatively expensive at around the $140 mark.

This might be alright: http://www.ebay.com....2-/290719928455

I had the same issue, but ended up getting new tanks put on the old radiator as the rest of it was in good condition and I didn't want to change the fan. Was relatively expensive at around the $140 mark.

I have my doubts that will fit. I got the 52mm ASI on my r32, had to buy the thinnest fans on the market for it to fit. Stock size and retain the clutch fan.

Flexalite_410_02.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
    • Well, I was using ECUTalk software if that helps? Not sure if that only can see engine codes? Is there any other software I could give a try? Or any way I can get a blink code?
    • I never touched it, it should have. I'll try to give it an adjust. With IACV plugged in, it idles at around 1120RPM on average. Max 1200 RPM, Minimum 1025RPM before it starts dropping right before stalling. Took the data from the Nistune logs.
    • Thats what im trying to solve bro  no one with aem tuner experience would advice  much appreciate 
×
×
  • Create New...