Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just one last question, i rang EFI today and also horsepower solutions, 2 recommended on here about ethanol, got two different bits of advice

EFI said a 400lph walbro will be an absolute minimum for 300kw and need 800cc minimum injectors

Horsepower solutions says 2X 044 externals and was very sure about it, said ill use almost double the 98 i use when flat out

so the 2X 044's is extreme dont you think? and said ill make 320kw

now im thinking more that EFI know what there on about, but if a 400lph walbro is minimum what more can i do??

if the gtx3076 is to get upto 22psi without restriction, im thinking a walbro 400lph and Xspurt 1000's, should i expect 340kw's here?????

Its weird cause plenty of people including myself are running mid 300's with a single 044 in tank however many seem to think its not enough.

In any case just get one of the new walbro 416 pumps, I picked one up for my setup the other day just to be safe.

+1 what battery said..

Thanks guys , just made my decision easy :thumbsup:

Hey Mark..

You will be happy to know I have just spent the last 2 hours writing up a tutorial with just about everything you need to know on how to fit top feeds to an R33 mate...

It is subject to moderator approval so should be in the Tutorial section in a day or 2...:thumbsup:

Its weird cause plenty of people including myself are running mid 300's with a single 044 in tank however many seem to think its not enough.

In any case just get one of the new walbro 416 pumps, I picked one up for my setup the other day just to be safe.

I'm running a single 044.... If I had a GTX or 3082 I probably would have crossed the safety barrier with it, but for now it'll do just fine...

As for the power level you expect to reach, too many factors to take into account... But anything over 300 is going to be lively :)

+1 what battery said..

Hey Mark..

You will be happy to know I have just spent the last 2 hours writing up a tutorial with just about everything you need to know on how to fit top feeds to an R33 mate...

It is subject to moderator approval so should be in the Tutorial section in a day or 2... :thumbsup:

Awesome mate, much appreciated :cheers:

  • 5 years later...
On 6/29/2012 at 10:36 PM, ARTZ said:

you can xspurts or IDs in with the stock plenum on a 33 ,fuel rail is only 100$ regs arent too expensive either, fuel hose is cheap also and you will need a pressure gauge which is 20$..

I got.xspurts in 750cc in 40mm, which are shorter than IDs which are 48mm, so makes for an easier fit,, I think both will fit, I'm yet too see IDs with stock plenum but it could be done..

.Injector will cost you 6-700$ and they are amongst the best..Ask anyone and they will tell you they are great to tune, great at idle and great for economy too...

heres mine fitted up, I got them in without removing the plenum, tricky but possible

29012012564.jpg

29012012565-1.jpg

fuel rail

http://goodiesdirect...&product_id=405

Do it once, do it right... :thumbsup:

Are they e85 compatible?

 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
    • To drain the Intake Heat Exchanger, there is a crappy drain plug in front of the driver's side front tyre: You should use the largest headed phillips screwdriver you had, and in my case I needed vice grips on the hose above as the plug was tight (tighter than it needed to be, since it has an o-ring seal).  After you have a tray down and open the drain, open the intake heat exchanger reservoir cap (drivers side one) and you should get a couple of litres of coolant To get to the radiator, you need to remove the plastic engine undertray. It is held on with a series of 10mm headed bolts and some clips. For the radiator, there is another type of crappy drain (kind of like a plastic banjo bolt) and you should attach a length of hose to direct the stream of coolant per this pic (otherwise the coolant hits the rad support and goes everywhere). The drain is on the rear of the radiator on the driver's side and a bit hard to find. Put a big tray or bucket down (5l won't be enough) and slowly unscrew the fitting by hand. You only want to remove it far enough for coolant to flow, it you unscrew it right out the whole fitting and direction pipe will come off and you will get a coolant bath (yum!). Undo the radiator reservoir cap and it should empty about 8l
    • So, this shouldn't be such a mission, but there were a few tricks so I thought I'd post up a DIY for it. This was on a Q50 Red Sport but I doubt any other V37 model is very different (maybe just less steps for the intake heat exchanger hoses) I pulled the radiator out to flush it because the car was running hot at the track, but obviously the same steps apply for changing a radiator for any reason including an upgrade. If you are removing the radiator, you of course need to drain and refill, so have 5+ litres of blue coolant ready. You also need to drain the intake heat exchanger to remove the radiator so you will need a couple of litres for that as well. You will also need something to deal with the auto transmission lines, I used 2x 8mm rubber caps on the radiator side, and a short length of 8mm pipe on the car side.....unless you can block these lines quickly you will loose AT fluid and it may be enough to hurt the transmission if you don't refill it. 2 other tools that really help dealing with coolant lines and spring clamps are Bent Needle Nose pliers Hose pliers Between them they will reduce the frustration (and injury) potential by about 1000% Other than that....lets go... "First, jack up your car". Yes really, and put it safely on stands. If you are not confident doing that you need to give this job to a mechanic
    • If the forester is anything like our old 2007 GTB Liberty, I could near on run ling Long's and "rate them", as no matter what, it just hung to the road, even when abusing it in a hard launch in the wet, or throwing it at corners.
×
×
  • Create New...