Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Has anyone find out who can get our Bose-Clarion PN-2414e unit with this error fixed in Australia or overseas and for how much? Or better yet, has anyone fixed it themselves?

There are a few reasons for this error to appear -

Circuit board problem

Cracked plastic gear

Jammed mechanism

The reasons for my CD ERR FO is the mechanism jamming which occured when I was switching tracks. I took the CD-Changer apart with the help of my father-electrician, but it proved too complex for him to figure out which part is stuck. The mechanism looks intact and not tampered with before - the car had just 40k on clock when bought.

The solutions I am considering -

Buying new unit from the US ($300), but it is missing one of the output at the back - probably for Navigation which I have.

Sending old unit to the US for repair ($150 repaired plus shipping)

Edited by Stayer
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/403882-cd-err-fo-fix/
Share on other sites

You can get them fixed in Aust, but I believe the cost is significant. It would be worthwhile looking at the double DIN facia and an aftermarket head unit.

If you want to keep a factory type unit, you could post it to the US for repair. Or you should be able to pick up a 2nd hand G35 head unit for less than $300. I picked up a bose G35 head unit for US$170. If you decide to go down this route, you have the obvious risk of it not working when it gets here.. If you go new or 2nd hand from USA, make sure you buy like for like (bose with navi with a G35 bose with navi), then it should be a simple swap. And the G35 HUs can play MP3 CDs.

The hard part will be getting your CDs out of the old unit.. I believe it requires major surgery..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/403882-cd-err-fo-fix/#findComment-6426268
Share on other sites

You can get them fixed in Aust, but I believe the cost is significant. It would be worthwhile looking at the double DIN facia and an aftermarket head unit.

If you want to keep a factory type unit, you could post it to the US for repair. Or you should be able to pick up a 2nd hand G35 head unit for less than $300. I picked up a bose G35 head unit for US$170. If you decide to go down this route, you have the obvious risk of it not working when it gets here.. If you go new or 2nd hand from USA, make sure you buy like for like (bose with navi with a G35 bose with navi), then it should be a simple swap. And the G35 HUs can play MP3 CDs.

The hard part will be getting your CDs out of the old unit.. I believe it requires major surgery..

thanks for that! where did you get it from if you don't mind me asking?

also, isn't the G35 unit you bought comes from Series 2 G35? I believe Series 2 (2005) V35s had MP3 player already.

I would be happy to get Series 2 Head-Unit with MP3 function, however, not sure if it would fit Series 1 as Series 1 has climate controls inside it and Series 2 doesn't.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/403882-cd-err-fo-fix/#findComment-6426415
Share on other sites

That's a good point, you will need to get a S1 deck if you have a S1 V35. I believe the connectors are different between the S1 and S2. Also, as you know, the face panel is different, and you will probably need this from the G35 too.

The S2 V35 doesn't play MP3s.. it does had a MD player, perhaps that is where the confusion has come from? That is the main reason I got the G35 HU, as I wanted MP3 playback. and it was cheaper than the Double DIN setup or the iPod I/F.

I found mine on the G35driver 'for sale' section. They pop up on there every now and then.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/403882-cd-err-fo-fix/#findComment-6426502
Share on other sites

I had the same issue when I got my car ages ago. I simply removed the unit and give it a nice kick, then all the CDs came out, but mine had other issues (no sound at all) you might wanna give it a go. Remove the unit and shake it a little bit. or better replace it with a 7" DVD player as I did.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/403882-cd-err-fo-fix/#findComment-6437465
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

sent 3 of you the link too

to be clear, that's the link to the offer of repair service

however, after I told him that I'm from Australia, he offered me to sent CD-Mechanism for the cost of repair to save me on shipping costs

also, CD ERR F0 may results from different problems (electrical, for example), mine was purely mechanical as CD-Mechanism stuck while I was changing disks on the move

so, talk to the guy about your problem

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/403882-cd-err-fo-fix/#findComment-6492626
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

I do like how you said "the car had just 40k on clock when bought." .... I haven't seen a V35 go through the Jp auctions with 40k on it since about 2005, yet you can find them all along Parramatta Road and other similar places with these sort of km on them. Truth be told for under $100 a guy can come out and make your odo say whatever you want. Just sayin'.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/403882-cd-err-fo-fix/#findComment-6727225
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...