Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

Just bought a R33 GTSt, I am upgrading the intercooler and piping and need to know what size bloe of valve adapter i need

on the piping.

What is the best BOV for a 33 gtst, 25mm, 32mm or 38mm?

This is the kit for the cooler and piping.

https://www.plazmaman.com/shop_itemdetail.php?itemid=142&cate=35

Cheers

Edited by slamaa
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/403888-bov-size/
Share on other sites

This is the advice :)

Or use a single GTR BOV

either/or is fine.

+1. I used to run a GTR BOV when I first got my gts-t.

I now run a Turbosmart dual port plumbed back... Apparently good for 40psi.. Which is good because I'm looking at running quite a bit out of a EFR eventually.

When they get sorted, anyway >.<

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/403888-bov-size/#findComment-6426462
Share on other sites

just leave the stock one on there..... there is no reason to change it

Looks like my FFP piping kit, it was cheaper and easier to weld the adapter than it was to source the flange for the stock on, and my stock one leaked... So there is occasionally a reason to change them :P

Mr no BOV man!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/403888-bov-size/#findComment-6426790
Share on other sites

or run none and have this:

(I have to stop reposting this LOL)

gallery_8001_314_55885.jpg

Serious note, doesn't really matter if you're not smashing much boost down the motor, most if not all guys make about 300 or so use the stock one or nothing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/403888-bov-size/#findComment-6427564
Share on other sites

Cool, thanks for the help, another quick question, would a straight 3" pipe from the dump loose too much pressure? or will i need to add in a muffler etc keeping in mind its for track use and will not be registered

It's track, straight through, side pipe..... Go nuts!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/403888-bov-size/#findComment-6427964
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...