Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A mate was moving my car off his front lawn, when he started it spluttered and stopped and now there is not a hint of it even wanting to fire.

I have checked my power fc sensor check and every thing looks fine, i changed the ignition module with no luck, the cas is showing 2-3 degree's when cranking and 0 if unplugged, have unplugged the tps, cas and afm with no difference but they all do should up as faulty in the sensor check screen, i can here the fuel pump prime but just to be sure i took the fuel line off and there is plenty of fuel flow.

From here i have no idea what to check next, any idea's would be great.

check for spark, check for fuel. If there is spark, and there is fuel coming to the rail, then check fuel pressure (pinch the return hose and see if that changes anything).

if u have spark, fuel, pressure, then put an LED/noid light on an injector plug and make sure uve got injector pulse.

if uve got everything, it should start and id be asking my mate what else he did other than moving it off the lawl :P

I know there is fuel there but not sure of pressure, i'll check that, as for what my mate did, he was as hung over as f**k and didnt even want to go out side so im sure he wasnt cutting hoops around the block lol, he wouldnt do it if he was sober.

  • 3 weeks later...

+1

Check spark and injector pulse

Check spark plugs

Check fuel pressure

Check timing belt

Check compression

in that order

I have checked everything except compression which im sure would not drop low enough on every cylinder that not 1 cylinder would fire and checking if the timing belt has slipped a tooth or two, the belt is still intact and tight.

Also tried a different ecu and once again not a hint of firing on any cylinder.

Any other suggestions?

Is the cas aligned with TDC compression stroke?

how do i check that?

I did replace the cas with another one i have here but its been sitting out in the car port for a while so im unsure if it works, the shaft has surface rust so im unsure what condition the internals would be in, it has not been in the rain tho.

Have you checked all the fuses, any major vacumn leaks? also you can take the CAS apart to check the shaft isnt broken..sounds like when my cas broke..

Edited by SliverS2

Yes but wen u penetrate the opening u have to have it aligned correctly....

Theres a keyway in the exhaust cam as the cas must be aligned with TDC compression stroke otherwise the ecu has an incorrect reference.

Hard to explain but pull the cas out and have a look in the centre if the shaft. Then look inside the opening. U should notice a key way which should stop the cas being inserted incorrectly but if the keyway is missing its a little harder to align

Have you checked all the fuses, any major vacumn leaks? also you can take the CAS apart to check the shaft isnt broken..

No vac leaks, but even if there was one the car would still atleast fire on a couple of cylinders, have not checked fuse's or relays tho, will do that when i get some light.

Yes but wen u penetrate the opening u have to have it aligned correctly....

Theres a keyway in the exhaust cam as the cas must be aligned with TDC compression stroke otherwise the ecu has an incorrect reference.

Hard to explain but pull the cas out and have a look in the centre if the shaft. Then look inside the opening. U should notice a key way which should stop the cas being inserted incorrectly but if the keyway is missing its a little harder to align

It is in properly then, had to fiddle with it before it would slide into the D shaped keyway, untill it did the cas would not slide all the way in.

I think your cas might be broken inside, its happened to me before and i wondered why the car wouldnt start , then when i took it apart i could see the shaft was broken..

I also decided to not use the front timing belt cover anymore cause i wasnt sure if it was stuffing up the alignment..

Edited by SliverS2
  • 2 weeks later...

For those with the same problem check the fuse marked "starter" dont assume that this is for the starter motor and dont bother checking because the starter is working fine, its actually for a "starting circuit" which is apparently separate from the ecu, and even if it looks fine change it any way.

Also after flattening the battery many times trying to start it you have probably screwed your plugs and cleaning them wont help so get a new set!

Lessons learnt :/

  • 4 weeks later...

So it was just a fuse? If so you must not have checked ignition/fuel correctly, as it will only cut one of those out.

Apparently The fuse reduces the injector pulse to a point where it wont get enough fuel to fire but still enough to show a pulse on a multi meter.

No idea why its there or even if that info is correct but it does explain why everything checked out fine but it really wasnt.

Wow that is annoying, we had a similar problem where the wrong earth had been used for the ignitor, it could sink enough current to spark, but the spark was really really weak and wouldn't actually fire.

Had to strip the loom apart to find the proper earth when we wired it up again, took ages to figure that one out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...