Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi fellow stagea enthusiasts and owners,

Seem to have encountered a few minor problems the other week, Long story short it was raining extremely hard when I was coming upto a set of traffic lights. Friend of mine was in the car with me and he screamed all of a sudden for me to watch the curb which I was a safe distance away from, Locked the steering wheel to the right hand side after being shocked and completely surprised and understeered up a curb. As a result of clipping the curb and the car going slightly up it I have annoyingly twisted my left radius rod bush and moved my engine crossmember to the right. By about half a centimetre to a centimetre and bent bolts in the process which hold it I'am led to believe according to a friend of mine and his fellow co workers at his tyre fitting/suspension shop. Need some straight answers because I need to fix these issues before my car is sold as a buyer is 100% interested on purchasing it and I have had to put off the sale unfortunately for a bit.

Questions which I have to ask are will I be able to replace my front radius rod bushes with these aftermarket units in the link without having to go aftermarket all the way around the OEM Nissan bushes I got quoted from Nissan would cost me around $90ea thought I may be able to save a bit of money and time whilst making some improvement by going aftermarket before it's sold. http://justjap.com/s...&cat=398&page=1

Second question is what process is involved in rectifying the issue with my crossmember and moving it back to the left where it should be sitting. Got a quote for $800 off a friend but I thought it was a bit steep and cannot justify spending 800 before the car is sold. Have worked in crash repairs for most of my past career but was a car painter so I don't have much experience in the panel beating section but I know for a fact the job is alot smaller then they claim.

Best regards and looking forwards to your responses Chris.

Edited by hks33

When I fitted adjustable castor arms I sold my stock ones for $30 the pair so you may be able to pick some up cheap. Skyline ones will do too. The bushes you have linked to will do the job - if your castor is the same L and R then you can install the bushes so as to provide maximum castor (it won't be that much) or for similar money you could get fully adjustable castor arms. I'm in NZ so can't help you with the chassis straightening!

From what I'm lead to believe I need the GT-R style ones (4wd) only...

Skyline ones will not work from my understanding. What do you mean in relation to my castor from the left and right being the same shouldn't it be the same all ready?

Yes GTR Skyline - here's some:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/suspension/auction-490757269.htm

Yes castor L and R should be the same but may not be as a result of hitting kerb and might still be out after chassis straightening in which case you can use the adjustables to correct.

If it is the same L and R then the above arms would be your best bet (simple to fit no press needed).

Do the ones which I added a link to in this thread have to be pressed in?

Yes or you can use a vise but if you don't have access to a press then you have to cut/burn the old ones out. If you are not going to keep the car 2nd hand stockers make the most sense.

With limited Stagea parts for sale currently on the forums I would have thought it would be hard for me to find 1 of radius rod bushes though..

Not second hand bushes second hand rods (Stagea or GTR). If you buy the TradeMe ones linked above it should only cost you about $AU 60 or 70 with postage.

No I understand your problem but it is easier to just replace the whole rod with another than to remove and replace the bush. You could buy the ones from TradeMe, or post up a wanted ad in the Stagea and the general "parts wanted" section of this site or phone around the wreckers

Are these adjustable rods with the bushes pressed in? I'm assuming there's no variant between both manual and automatic.

Could you please PM me a price pretty interested if it's moderately priced.

As for your crossmember issue i may be able to shead some light on that. A long time ago i hit a gutter in much the same fashion (although in a crappy VS ute) and the damage to the crossmember was substantial.

First thing to do is check all the welds on the crossmember. If any are even cracked it must be replaced. Ditto if theres any bent areas.

Secondly check it for square. It will need to be measured to make sure its not warped or twisted in any direction. If it is, it must be replaced.

Finally, the whole car must be put on a rack and checked that the chassis is still straight. Its easier than u think to tweak the rails. Uve mentioned the bolts being bent so theres a good chance its tweaked. Although being in smash repair im sure u would have done most of these checks.

As for the $800 that sounds cheap to me. Personally I'd want to make sure everything is done properly with no corners cut. Otherwise the car will never drive right no matter how much u wheel align it. When my old ute was checked the crossmember was bent, twisted and cracked! It also had damaged the radius rod bush, which later turned out to be a bent rod. As well as a split lower control arm bush. So make sure everything is examined very very carefully.

Edited by Raysboostin

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...