Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I know a guy in the ukrane that is rebuilding his RD28 based RB30. He is using a Nitto RB30 90mm crank this time. The last engine made upwards of 1200-1300hp, and ran 8's in an R33 GTR shell. In the end a piston cracked and let go, resulting in a rod leaving sideways through the block. Only the cams survived, everything else was a total loss. This is generally the result of any failure in a high power engine. Small issues become big issues very quickly, and then its all over.

He used an RD28 because RB30's aren't available over there. The extra water jacketing around the outside of the block makes the more rigid for sure, but the cylinders aren't any thicker than an RB26/RB30 block once bored from 83 to 86mm. They are about 92-94mm OD at most. That being said the rigidity the water jacketing adds around the block would do wonders to greatly reduce twist induced block cracking.

I believe his RD was also 1/2-3/4 grout filled. Cooling wasnt an issue as he ran methanol. No thermostat and an electric water pump with a resivour was the extent of the cooling system. No radiator. Running no more than about 60 seconds from burnout to finish line helped too.

I see one other advantage to using the RD28 block as well. The Rb30's are getting more and more scarce. Using an RD28 allows blocks to be scavenged from a whole lot more patrols as well as the ford mavericks.

If I can find some more pictures of his engine I'll post them up.

  • Thanks 1

Still available new from Nissan as well. That was the other big factor, it had to be sustainable through at least 3 rebuilds over an extended period. Readily available brand new blocks for a reasonable price certainly helps.

My understanding is the cast composite is a little stronger in the newer RD28 as the tech wasn't available at the time the RB30's were being produced. Much the same issue as the 32/33 cross over period in the RB26 ie Blocks cracking due to a bad run of casts 1994/5.

The Neo 25 head will fit with some modification. Not much though.

It has probably been mentioned but I easily miss stuff so dumb question time

What head do these blocks take? The 26 or can you use a 25 neo head?

I did warn you all it was a dumb question

I'll pass for a street car... much better engine choices out there for cheap displacement in a skyline

You sound like a broken record. Why don't you finish your car so we can all see what this 'big displacement skyline can do'. FFS!

You sound like a broken record. Why don't you finish your car so we can all see what this 'big displacement skyline can do'. FFS!

And you and your RB30 crew don't?

"OMG fork lift motors are the best!!!" *Wank Wank Wank*

LOL

If you want to see what they can do, go have a look at some! 500rwkw on 1bar with completely stock bottom ends and lasting 50000+ KMs of thrashing...

Or 11 second 1/4 miles in cars 200 to 400 KG heavier with very basic changes staying NA.

The world already knows what they can do!

  • 9 months later...

Is this project ready and running or still work in progress? What headgasket are you going to use? I'm building rd28/rb26 combo and only problem is the headgasket. Copper headgasket would be good but aren't those prone to mix oil and cooling fluid?

Success of a copper head gasket sealing comes down to the surface prep of the block and head, and if you spray the gasket with hylomar to seal it up.... or not.

An o-ringed block (and especially if you o-ring the head to create a w-seal) will seal a properly prepped head and block better than any other method. Andrey uses this exact setup along with H11 tool steel head studs (L19 grade ARP stud), and it doesn't lift the head or cross-contaminate the fluids.

I would just like to use copper head gasket without o-rings. I might try that and if it doesn't hold then try something different.

I also have rd28 head gasket which might be able to use with little mods.

That engine is going to have rod/stroke ratio of 1.91:1. :D

For copper head gaskets have a look here: http://www.headgasket.com/faq.html

And also look at his products page and the compression rings that he makes. They are basically 3-4 thou shim steel rings that go around the combustion chambers/cylinders. Adding a little extra thickness here focuses the head clamping forces to create a better combution seal around the cylinders. The rest of the website is a good read too. The gaskets are quite cheap as well.

  • 2 years later...

http://www.ridgecrest.com.au/3201.htmlCustom copper head gaskets in au

I used Ridgecrest once. The tolerances were so far off the gasket was unusable. It seemed his cnc machine had a linearity error, and produced a gasket that moved the dowels centres 1.1mm closer together. The backup service was less than satisfying too, blaming my design as being at fault. Never mind that the same bore and hole centre positions were used to make the block and spacer plate.

QLD Gaskets on the other hand, were as accurate as my CNC machined spacer plates and centred perfectly on my 89mm cylinder bores.

  • 5 months later...
  • 5 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • haha don't worry I'm sue you've got more fun ahead buying a 30 year old turbo car....but at least you are in the right place to ask
    • some days eh? The keyless entry and interior light on/off with the key will be controlled by the Body Control Module, but I'm not certain where that is or what it looks like (you might get lucky with a search to get a part#, which could be printed on it). I'd start at the A pillar/ Under dash/kick panel on the driver's side
    • It might be hit and miss, but Nissan Genuine Parts and Pitworks are not the same thing, although both are available from Nissan Dealers with Nissan Part Numbers. Nissan Genuine Parts are the OEM stuff, Pitworks are their attempt to get people back from generic parts makers
    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
×
×
  • Create New...