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Rd28 Development

HOT_R33

By HOT_R33,
in New South Wales

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GTRNUR Grand Master

GTRNUR

Posted
Posted

I know a guy in the ukrane that is rebuilding his RD28 based RB30. He is using a Nitto RB30 90mm crank this time. The last engine made upwards of 1200-1300hp, and ran 8's in an R33 GTR shell. In the end a piston cracked and let go, resulting in a rod leaving sideways through the block. Only the cams survived, everything else was a total loss. This is generally the result of any failure in a high power engine. Small issues become big issues very quickly, and then its all over.

He used an RD28 because RB30's aren't available over there. The extra water jacketing around the outside of the block makes the more rigid for sure, but the cylinders aren't any thicker than an RB26/RB30 block once bored from 83 to 86mm. They are about 92-94mm OD at most. That being said the rigidity the water jacketing adds around the block would do wonders to greatly reduce twist induced block cracking.

I believe his RD was also 1/2-3/4 grout filled. Cooling wasnt an issue as he ran methanol. No thermostat and an electric water pump with a resivour was the extent of the cooling system. No radiator. Running no more than about 60 seconds from burnout to finish line helped too.

I see one other advantage to using the RD28 block as well. The Rb30's are getting more and more scarce. Using an RD28 allows blocks to be scavenged from a whole lot more patrols as well as the ford mavericks.

If I can find some more pictures of his engine I'll post them up.

  • Thanks 1
HOT_R33 Proficient

HOT_R33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Still available new from Nissan as well. That was the other big factor, it had to be sustainable through at least 3 rebuilds over an extended period. Readily available brand new blocks for a reasonable price certainly helps.

My understanding is the cast composite is a little stronger in the newer RD28 as the tech wasn't available at the time the RB30's were being produced. Much the same issue as the 32/33 cross over period in the RB26 ie Blocks cracking due to a bad run of casts 1994/5.

HOT_R33 Proficient

HOT_R33

Posted
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The Neo 25 head will fit with some modification. Not much though.

It has probably been mentioned but I easily miss stuff so dumb question time

What head do these blocks take? The 26 or can you use a 25 neo head?

I did warn you all it was a dumb question

Piggaz Grand Master

Piggaz

Posted
Posted

I'll pass for a street car... much better engine choices out there for cheap displacement in a skyline

You sound like a broken record. Why don't you finish your car so we can all see what this 'big displacement skyline can do'. FFS!

MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

Posted
Posted

You sound like a broken record. Why don't you finish your car so we can all see what this 'big displacement skyline can do'. FFS!

And you and your RB30 crew don't?

"OMG fork lift motors are the best!!!" *Wank Wank Wank*

LOL

If you want to see what they can do, go have a look at some! 500rwkw on 1bar with completely stock bottom ends and lasting 50000+ KMs of thrashing...

Or 11 second 1/4 miles in cars 200 to 400 KG heavier with very basic changes staying NA.

The world already knows what they can do!

  • 9 months later...
Raami Newbie

Raami

Posted
Posted

Is this project ready and running or still work in progress? What headgasket are you going to use? I'm building rd28/rb26 combo and only problem is the headgasket. Copper headgasket would be good but aren't those prone to mix oil and cooling fluid?

GTRNUR Grand Master

GTRNUR

Posted
Posted

Success of a copper head gasket sealing comes down to the surface prep of the block and head, and if you spray the gasket with hylomar to seal it up.... or not.

An o-ringed block (and especially if you o-ring the head to create a w-seal) will seal a properly prepped head and block better than any other method. Andrey uses this exact setup along with H11 tool steel head studs (L19 grade ARP stud), and it doesn't lift the head or cross-contaminate the fluids.

Raami Newbie

Raami

Posted
Posted

I would just like to use copper head gasket without o-rings. I might try that and if it doesn't hold then try something different.

I also have rd28 head gasket which might be able to use with little mods.

That engine is going to have rod/stroke ratio of 1.91:1. :D

GTRNUR Grand Master

GTRNUR

Posted
Posted

For copper head gaskets have a look here: http://www.headgasket.com/faq.html

And also look at his products page and the compression rings that he makes. They are basically 3-4 thou shim steel rings that go around the combustion chambers/cylinders. Adding a little extra thickness here focuses the head clamping forces to create a better combution seal around the cylinders. The rest of the website is a good read too. The gaskets are quite cheap as well.

  • 2 years later...
GTRNUR Grand Master

GTRNUR

Posted
Posted

http://www.ridgecrest.com.au/3201.htmlCustom copper head gaskets in au

I used Ridgecrest once. The tolerances were so far off the gasket was unusable. It seemed his cnc machine had a linearity error, and produced a gasket that moved the dowels centres 1.1mm closer together. The backup service was less than satisfying too, blaming my design as being at fault. Never mind that the same bore and hole centre positions were used to make the block and spacer plate.

QLD Gaskets on the other hand, were as accurate as my CNC machined spacer plates and centred perfectly on my 89mm cylinder bores.

  • 5 months later...
  • 5 years later...

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