Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guyz,

anyone know if it is possible to fit 2 10" subs in the boot?

i checked a few subs online that come with boxes and the measurements all look too big.

they are all about 38cm high and i dont think it will fit.

anyone managed to fit 2 subs in?

Pics?

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/404274-subwoofer-in-boot/
Share on other sites

I haven't been in the high end car stereo scene for about 10 years. But JL Audio used to make great subs. Dual 8ohm voice coils, wired in parallel drops the unit to 4 ohms. Then wire two of them in parallel for a 2 ohm box. Run if off a big alpine V12 amp.

jaycar amps have always proved themselves...

ive had dramas with jaycar woofers tho... all have let go of voice coils... without overpowering.

VDO dayton woofers and Jaycar amps were the best combination ive heard in a sedan.

whatever you do, make sure everything is power matched, and the box is tuned. cables can never be too thick in gauge.

ive got some oldschool basic box design programs i can throw on a disc if anyone is interested

Thanx for the reply guyz, appreciate it.

i currently have a soundstream stealth 700wrms @ 2ohm amp waiting to go in the boot and that is why i am finding it difficult to get subs to match.

maybe i will check out alberts.

You can do what I've go done (only one side though), a custom side mount box for both sides if you want two subs, but the subs is best to be ten inches (you might get away with twelve inches but less space) and you will have to remove or relocate your jack.

76484d1196752156-4080-subwoofer-enclosure-694916_10_full.jpg

Edited by 81gSKy

OK maybe someone can explain this ohm thing to me.

I have the following amp which is rated 700watts RMS at 2ohms and 1200watts RMS at 1 ohm

http://www.elite-ele...roducts_id=1318

And i found the following sub that may fit in my boot. but it is 500watts RMS at 4 ohms.

http://www.elite-electronics.com.au/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=79_123_128&products_id=570

Will this do? i am not after loud music, i just want clean bass at low levels and once in a high level.

Or this sub which is a 600 Watts RMS at 1 ohm.

http://www.elite-electronics.com.au/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=79_123_128&products_id=1429

Cheers guyz.

Edited by SL33K

Wow that looks awesome 81gSKy

How much would that cost? i am not good with tools.

I'm not either, best to order it from the States cause they already have them made from moulds, instead of some guy doing it for the first time fiddling around. It pretty much slots in, plug and play, have a look on eBay or other V35 or G35 related sites and forums. Last time I saw it was about $350 each side, there's some fibreglass work as well hence the price.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
    • But again, the engineers said your cast aluminium would be fine based on the load that would be stretching that section. Same load stretching the bolts in a flex (not the twist), with a much smaller cross sectional area than the original part you've broken. It's why you'd need to be using higher strength bolts, but that's just making up for the strength you lose with less area...
    • I am truly amazed someone on this planet was able to cycle the pump using a scan tool. I've always ghetto cycled them on Nissan 90s shit boxes by slamming the brakes and pulling the handbrake to agitate the rear wheels enough to cause a speed difference
×
×
  • Create New...