Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

There's your problem then.

my hks one has the wastegate coming off at a reverse angle, haven't had it on the dyno but doesn't look like it's spiking so far, and more importantly i doubt hks would have made them if they had such a huge inherent problem.

my hks one has the wastegate coming off at a reverse angle, haven't had it on the dyno but doesn't look like it's spiking so far, and more importantly i doubt hks would have made them if they had such a huge inherent problem.

.

Yes but most of the jap kits are 50mm gates or there abouts, they dont use the smaller compact gates like the Tial mvs so they had to mount them further away from the collector.

Edited by slippylotion

Hmm, hope the hybrid guys take note and see about a shorter wg tube.

the one on my 6boost is similar to Roys, with less of a point upward. the last time I got a quote from 6boost Kyle also said he would leave the wg pipe as just a stub off the manifold so u can make it application specific. Pretty sure that's a 50mm port too. Allows u to simply step it down to ur gate size

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • If by axles you mean driveshafts, they're supposed to have play in them. They are not hard to recondition, it's just pulling apart the cv's, cleaning them and regreasing, fit new boots. I've only rebuilt one set and there was fk-all wear in them, still running just fine 8 years later.
    • Note, the aluminium bit that screws in the end that you have to remove to dismantle the rack is single use as it's punch-marked, it will strip when you unscrew it, and then you have to flatten the notch in the steel rack body, screw in a new aluminium end when rebuilding, then punch-mark it again once assembled. it is also 'somewhat tricky' to refit the rack>steering wheel linkage gear as it needs to be set to the right preloads etc. A rebuild is probably something that's better just given to a steering shop for a couple of hundred, unless you're mad-keen to do it yourself. 
    • Do you have the workshop Manuel? Sorry that's a Spanish waiter...I mean, manual? Some relevant pages>
    • How much have you lowered?  I had 350Z springs in the rear and was able to pull the camber into factory spec with the factory arms on the rear, obviously the front ran negative camber as it isn't adjustable, but rotating the wheels regularly evened out the wear.
×
×
  • Create New...