Jump to content
SAU Community

Symptoms Of A Broken Diff?

Manuel Kasko
 Share

Recommended Posts

Manuel Kasko Grand Master

Manuel Kasko

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

Finding that when changing gears its not as smooth as any other skyline I have driven.

As I put the car into the gear and clutch out the car does 2-3 small jerks as I start to accelerate.

First thing I did when this happened was adjusted my TPS (correct voltage) thinking it had something to do with the throttle. This has not fixed the issue.

So secondly I have also changed the oil in the diff to something around the 90 mark.

I did notice there was a fair build up of metal shavings and my diff oil had a very gold shine to it.

Opinions?

Does the jerking when changing gears sound like a diff issue or something else

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/404864-symptoms-of-a-broken-diff/
Share on other sites
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

If the diff was broken, you'd hear it.

If it's worn - then well, that's almost a given. It's 15 years old :)

Jerking could be a bit of play/blacklash. The mounts could also be quite work. Joints and overall drive train

Manuel Kasko Grand Master

Manuel Kasko

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So the symptoms seem like those of a worn diff?

From what I could find on here and online it only gave symptoms of a broken diff such as loud noises etc.

Mine makes a clunk when I clutch in while it's in reverse. Still trying to work out if the clunk is from the gearbox or diff.

Manuel Kasko Grand Master

Manuel Kasko

Posted
  • Author
Posted

question, how smooth are your gear changes normally and have you got your issues that you were having with your clutch sorted?

Clutch should be coming out this weekend for a new spigot bush and thrust bearing.

That should get rid of the annoying sqeaking noise from the thrust bearing

The issue started after the tune.

But it wouldnt be anything to do with the tune I wouldnt think.

Maybe just the extra power has done something or the change in clutch

D.I.Y. Mik Veteran

D.I.Y. Mik

Posted
Posted

Mine does it a bit too, i think its play in the diff, it needs shimming, Im gonna ask Diff Dr.

Does yours sort of slap back and forth when not clutching properly?

How about humming at high speed? Mine does.

gbox mounts?

diff mounts?

rear subframe bushes?

Hes asking if anything is loose, like where the diff bolts on to the car, easier to fix than a diff centre.

You can get a good suspension place to check most of that.

I just had mine all done so its not that.

If your diff is like mine ill keep you posted about what Diff Dr says.

D.I.Y. Mik Veteran

D.I.Y. Mik

Posted
Posted

Rang him but he was busy, he said something like "cant shim it, put racing centre in"

I wonder what a "racing centre" is (lsd?) and how much it costs. ill find out later.

I found chunks in the black sludge on my drain plug, so its not going to last too much longer.

Most aftermarket centres are about $800-$1600, i dunno if its worth getting a used one or rebuilding mine. If it can be rebuilt.

Hopefully Rob(Diff Dr) has a solution thats cheap and awesomely strong(clever guy), hes done it before.(my r32 driveshaft, the kingswood diff)

Does anyone know if they can be rebuilt?

34GeeTeeTee Grand Master

34GeeTeeTee

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

Shimming tightens the LSD up and is nothing to do with the backlash, the diffs would need to be adjusted to take up the slack, if you dont know what you are doing just take the centre to a diff guru :)

If i was in Canberra i would help but 4hrs is a bit far for a quick look!

He is referring to a mechanical diff centre i would say, a lot of fun but they do clunk and carry on in carparks as they are basically locked anyway....

You should be able to check the diff bushes, subframe, tailshaft, gearbox and engine mounts etc man...... Its hard to picture what is happening from your description though......

D.I.Y. Mik Veteran

D.I.Y. Mik

Posted
Posted (edited)

Yeah all my mounts and things are good, solid mounts, engine damper etc just been done, driveshaft is a new one piece with big unis.

When im under the car (on stands) with the handbrake on and in neutral, the axles are locked from the handbrake, but the driveshaft still has play, but stiff play, if you know what i mean?

I know you can shim the lsd clutches, but In the kingswood he shimmed the gears back in position (no lsd) ill ask him what the go is with this.

Not keen on a crappy centre, though ill see how many $$$.

Thanks Mat.

Edited by D.I.Y. Mik
Manuel Kasko Grand Master

Manuel Kasko

Posted
  • Author
Posted

It's a little hard to explain the feeling in words which sucks. But year it just seems slack much like i don't know a ripple effect when you change gears.

You clutch out and it feels like it rocks into place.

Back lash I guess.

Hope the diff dr can work something out for a good price and go from there. Mine steps out to the left or right when it loses traction so does that mean I guess it doesn't need shimming

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

You can't shim the standard diff anyway.

You CAN shim it, but what you are doing is not shimming anything that is supposed to be shimmed. Just jamming the internals together hard and wearing surfaces that were not meant to be worn.

Whoever came up with the idea is a retard.

D.I.Y. Mik Veteran

D.I.Y. Mik

Posted
Posted (edited)

Depends which gears i guess.

The old holden v8 diffs must have big gears and room to do it, cos it worked well for ages,

its not suprising cos they are simple and big.

I know squat about LSDs, and he didnt tell me jack yet so.... monday, Dan i guess ill find out what he can do.

What are you talking about GTSBoy, shimming the gears or the clutches?

I like to know which ideas are crap so i dont get burned.

Anyway its definately rooted, sounds worse after an oil change.

Edited by D.I.Y. Mik

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Question about BoV on RB25DET NEO

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Something to note, on an aftermarket BOV, it's quite possible to end up with the worst of both worlds, where on light throttle, there isn't enough force to open the BOV so you get small reversion and driveability issues, and with the venting to atmosphere, it dumps a lot of fuel on shifts. Realistically, dumping to atmosphere under power isn't a major driveability issues, compared to the issues of stalling from reversion. If you're getting up the throttle, then putting the clutch in, say on a shift up, but then don't release the clutch, yes, the engine can and will stall, but, just drive around it, and that's easy, let the clutch out in the next gear and the car rolling will keep it all running / going.who wants a hard hit of throttle and then to just let the motor idle anyway?   Main issue for driveability is blipping throttle and it wanting to stall, like when parking or trying to move in slow traffic.
    • soviet_merlin
      2020 Nissan Skyline 400R V37/Infiniti Q50 RS insurance in NSW

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      As in they quoted one price, you mentioned the exhaust, and they promptly added $200 on top? Interesting.
    • GTSBoy
      Question about BoV on RB25DET NEO

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Note that I'm not suggesting this is a great idea. Just saying that it is something that could be done to achieve a better outcome than the more shit ideas will provide.
    • luke gtr
      What's this Foreign Object?

      By luke gtr · Posted

      I'd try removing it, connecting hoses and see if that helps. Depending on specs, it could actually be restricting the flow(it also might be helping).
    • GTSBoy
      Question about BoV on RB25DET NEO

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes, that's a hybrid BOV. The adjustable spring load ones are about making teh pressure build up higher before venting, so you get a more agressive whoosh. That is not what I meant or what you want. By "restricting", I don't mean "keep it closed until the pressure is higher, then open it fully". I mean "open it as soon as it is required, but only have a small port area, so that the flow rate out of it is slowed down". The pressure will rise to be higher than a bigger ported BOV would provide, but it would do while it is venting. The idea is to slow down the rate at which the replacement eair is flowing past the AFM, to reduce the magnitude of the air flow signal peak, to reduce the amount of fuel that is added per revolution.
×
×
  • Create New...