Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 118
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

The process goes like this:

Buy turbo rb20 32

remove turbo

Replace with standard manifold for increased backpressure

Install straight pipe with blast pipes.

Mig up the diff

Go chuck skidzzz ;)

Still registered as Turbo.

Still get F'd In the A by the 5-0.

Also, you left out the step where you install a BW 3 speed.

All noobs.

I say buy an r34 GTR and remove the turbos when on your Ps. That way once you are off your Ps you can put the turbos back in and decimate all in a 1/4 mile race that will take 60 seconds or so... You just have to make sure the manifold is tough, because you may blow the welds to the intake causing piston rings to fry and your floor pan falling out.

:wub:

All noobs.

I say buy an r34 GTR and remove the turbos when on your Ps. That way once you are off your Ps you can put the turbos back in and decimate all in a 1/4 mile race that will take 60 seconds or so... You just have to make sure the manifold is tough, because you may blow the welds to the intake causing piston rings to fry and your floor pan falling out.

:wub:

This guy lives his life a 1/4 mile at a time

Sau, Yes he probably asked a stupid question or whatever he did, but to him its something hard to figure out so he asked you guys for advice, yes he should of used the Search function but yeah. To you it may seem like something so dumb, because the topic probs, been done to death. But you should consider, that hes young like me and just wants to unravel something thats spinning around in his head. Flam him, but help him at the same time. Otherwise hes just gonna ask the same question again, just with different words. So put your head in.

Where was this support when I first asked about getting a R34 for my first car? Barely got any replies :(

But seriously to OP, if your genuinely non-trolling and want to get a 34, get yourself a GT or 25GT (correct me if I'm wrong guys, the 25GT is the RB25DE?). It's non-turbo and a good car to drive. My 34 in my sig is my first car, have driven with cops, tailed to and from and never have I been pulled over once.

If you're serious about getting one, I'm happy to give you a lift in my free time so you can get a feel.

And to answer your question, the only R34 you can drive on your P's is the GT/25GT. Pretty much the same with the GTT but without the 3 center dash gauge, exhaust system may be a little different and other little mechanical things that won't really matter to you at this stage. I'm not going to go into the GTR's since that's all I know for now.

And about the cop scanner, LOL. Never knew Need For Speed radar technology existed in real life. But if it does exist, then I'll be damned :domokun:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The team at OBD2 Australia are pretty good, shoot them an email and ask them. I've dealt with them before for work stuff. I'd be shocked if it didn't work, so long as Consult can activate the ABS. But you might need to use KLine for it which would be the stopper, as I don't think that piece does KLine comms.
    • Yeah and hence my ghetto way of slamming the brakes, get the ABS to cycle, rebleed seems to be a sensible workaround.
    • Hey! Happy to help. Nothing inherently wrong with the adapter, it's more so with Brett Collins himself. He gave me a lot of incorrect information when I was in contact with him and was extremely rude when I challenged him. He stated I could not use any aftermarket twin plate clutches except for his own, not to use the dush shield, bla bla bla and it was all BS.  Collins stated to cut roughly 14mm's off the housing, I took off 15mm to make room for the dust shield. I would confirm with whatever adapter manufacturer you're using. 
    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
×
×
  • Create New...