Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey I have an r33 series 2. Pretty much stock except for front mount, 3 inch exhaust, Walbro fuel pump, stock turbo high flowed, spitfire coilpacks, haltech interceptor piggy back. running 15psi and 12 psi daily ( 230kw at rears)Had iridium plugs in it that stuffed up followed by Ngk high temp plugs which stuffed up after 5000k's. I have no idea what plugs to put in it, I want good plugs that aren't gunna stuff up, really sick of misfire problems. Any suggestions? I was thinking double platinums but I'm a noob with spark plugs, what does everyone run?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/405038-what-spark-plugs-to-use/
Share on other sites

[#404] Sorry, we could not locate the page you are requesting to view. Please click here to return to the community index

That's what i get on the spark plug link.

I'm a noob with spark plugs too.

What do you plugs look like when you take them out?

I have found some interesting reading at the NGK site this page in particular

http://www.ngk.com.a...k-plug-analysis

This page kinda backs up what The Mafia said about tune might be the problem over bad plugs, could it be a bit lean with 15 psi and standard injectors?

I was using 8's (which it had when it was imported) with similar mods you and about 250kw, but after about 4000 k's took them out and checked them, figured they might be a bit cold for day to day driving as they were black as when I took then out so guessed they might be fouling up and went back to 7's which have been in for 11,000k's without a problem so far.

As is said I am a noob, and would be more then happy to be corrected, so I can learn more about it.

Wowsers. 8's. Fark man unless ur circuit racing the thing constantly with no street driving theres no need for 8's.

As Guilt toy said. 7's are perfect or even 6's depending if ur tune is on the richer side and may foul plugs

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I dunno about that as a blanket statement. Pitwork is Nissan's "Nissan genuine" thing, and for stuff like timing belts, I have found them to be excellent. Of course, for things like oil filters, you always use proper trusted brands anyway, not whatever the OEM has taken to using.
    • Ahhhh... If you were putting 12V to the led in there, that's likely made it very unhappy. Chances are how you put power, was 12V across an LED that's meant to only have about 20mA through it at peak, and a forward voltage of about 1.8 to 2.4 volts. That circuit is likely only a 3V3 circuit, and will have a resistor in series with the led too. That's my guesstimate on that light, without having touched one.
    • Another vote for installing them and see how you go.  I mean, you already own them, why would you not fit them? 
    • I have had too many of those over the years, my cars have a toolkit or at minimum a cheapy multi tool thing because its too easy to be snookered by some stupid plastic clip that stops you checking the battery terminal isn't loose.
    • Basically, if there is a part# on the nissan catalogue, it is a genuine part. There is a thing called "new old stock" which is stuff made years ago but never sold (or landfilled), but it is super hit and miss what you can buy. Other than some expensive Nismo stuff there is nothing new being made that suits these cars. The only time to be a little careful is (mostly in the US I think, but maybe Japan too), Nissan started rebranding some cheap crap maintenance parts like oil filters as "Pitworks"; stay away from them, if you are buying cheap just buy whatever the local car parts shop carries The three part numbers have an explanation on Amayama: 0V005 is auto, base style 0V015 is manual 0V505 is auto, hectic momo branded ones, maximum F&F points there!
×
×
  • Create New...