Jump to content
SAU Community

Front End Shudder Under Power And Steering Lock

180Shauny
 Share

Recommended Posts

180Shauny Enthusiast

180Shauny

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Transfer case as in gearbox? That was fully flushed recently.

Checked the Attessa, the reservoir is actually quite overfilled. Planning to get it flushed with Nulon Synthetic tomorrow anyway, is there a drain plug or something that you open? Will get the diffs done as well.

I think I have a random leak that isn't oil which I'm getting them to look at also. I thought it was power steering but the level in the reservoir seems okay.

180Shauny Enthusiast

180Shauny

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So I had the diff oil changed (new diff oil) and the attessa and transfer case changed (Nulon 100% synthetic) and the problem is fixed. Good call Scotty!

Incidentally the leak turned out to be a hole in my radiator top tank which I discovered on the way to work today :rolleyes: yay!

pomnz Enthusiast

pomnz

Posted
Posted

There is Matic J in the transfer case also, as well as the gearbox. ;)

The power steering can also cause bad shuddering if it gets air in the cylinder.

The service manual says Matic J in the gearbox (10.3 litres) but Matic D (1.8 litres) in the Transfer case.

Something I'm not clear on though is the atessa fluid, is this the transfer case oil or separate to it? I'm having the same shudder problems as the OP.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

I have Nulon synthetic in the power steering, the attessa and the transfer case without issues. The gearbox will have standard Dextron III in it when it comes back from Kewish, they prefer non synthetic fluid for some reason in their rebuilt auto's.

The transfer case has a simple 10mm allen key drain bung, it is separate from the attesa fluid. Make sure you crack the filling bung first. ;)

iamhe77 Grand Master

iamhe77

Posted
Posted

The service manual says Matic J in the gearbox (10.3 litres) but Matic D (1.8 litres) in the Transfer case.

Something I'm not clear on though is the atessa fluid, is this the transfer case oil or separate to it? I'm having the same shudder problems as the OP.

Yes, and Matic D for the Attessa.

The easiest way is just to use a fluid that is compatible with both Matic D & J in everything - hence the use of Nulon 100% synthetic trans fluid.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • joshuaho96
      Cas issue

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • joshuaho96
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Nice....looking forward to that update
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Neg, the top one is actually for the front. The sizes are 18x10.5 +18 and 18x11 +32.   I measured many times but I'm sure I'll have problems as this is the thread for problems.
×
×
  • Create New...