Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys this one is for all the peps that know about the RB26DETT, i just bought a R34 GTR a few weeks ago and last night noticed a noise that started when i was in lower gears under power, i was able to record it thismorning and have uploaded it. Some friends think it is lifters. The oil needs to be changed so i have bought some lifter addative and injector addative also, if anyone can ID the cause of this would help alot or even give me a place to start.

The car drives fine also, hits all gear shifts comes on boost, it is allso factor stock besides suspension and exhaust.

Cheers

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BiqNhzqfGEM&feature=youtu.be

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/405289-r34-gtr-engine-noise/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 90
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yeh i did, had nissan in tasie go over the car, they pulled off the turbos did a compression test, all came up good, the onlythings they found was diff pinion seal needed to be replaced and also weaping sump, oil pressure is fine and oil is full, it is rather black tho so this is y im gettihng it changed tomorrow and adding the lifter addative.

I don't think your lifter additive will do anything. Reason being, and more knowledgeable people will correct me if I'm wrong, but lifter treatment is traditionally for motors with hydraulic lifters that suffer build up of contaminants. The RB26 having solid lifters cannot suffer the same problem. The lifters can need re-shimming if out of spec, the hydraulic ones are self clearenced.

Does it rise and lower with Revs, or road speed?

Could be a number of bad things unfortunately.... hope its something more simple

if its done im going to have to sell it cheap and just by something for 10k and cut my losses i think, its my daily to and from work w/o a car i cant get to work.

That sux man, but now you know why they say, if you buy a gtr you better make sure you have enough money to buy another one (implying a engine rebuild)

i would have thought if it was a big end or blown engine that the noise would have been there the whole time and not just when i accelerate in 1st and 2nd, and over 3k rpm in 3rd the noise is gone alltogeather.

yeh 3 months and i would have the cash to rebuild it but getting to work is a real pig without a car.

Edited by T4NK

I remember writing this....

On your number one point, no its not hard. Just expect to reach deep into your pockets. If you can do work yourself, and do some research into it, Rather than just taking whatever is in a kit, then it works out much cheaper.

Remember, gtrs have their failings too. You might go get one, and spin a bearing in your first week. Hello 8k basic rebuild.

Cost for cost, once and engine rebuild is taken into account the V will not disgrace itself against a gtr in a straight line. It doesn't have the benefit of awd, but it is also more comfortable and easier to drive IMO. And you'll never end up with oil in the rockers in a vq!

Terrible luck mate....

Don't sell it though, to move a car like that in the time frame you need to get another car, you'll be looking at getting 20-30k if your lucky I would think..

Maybe diagnosis it, if bad, buy a crapper then save for the rebuild...

Fingers crossed mate...

Hey mate sorry to hear about the car. This is my biggest fear, im currently looking for a 34 gtr and would be in the same boat as you if I bought one and this happened. I keep reading peoples posts about this happening so often with their GTRs and it kinda got me thinking of just buying a 32 gtr, that way i would have enough money for a rebuild.

If you dont mind me asking where did you get the car from and how much did you pay?? You can PM me if you dont want to post it here. Cheers.

Hopefully you get some good news from the mechanic but with my limited knowledge this sounds pretty serious.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...