Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 90
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

yeh it was really nice on Saturday night/Sunday morning, we left at around midnight did speed limits all the way to berowra was the 1st time i was able to drive the GTR on a good road other then to and from work so im pretty devastated about it. 1st time i gave it a bit and it went

After reading your thread and current situation, my suggestions for your car and it's use (big thing here is keeping constant oil pressure and oil around the oil pickup):

Stock gtr oil pump, because n1 will pump more oil out of sump regardless of restrictor.

tomei or similar baffle kit with restrictor, plus .5-1L overfill on oil. I put 6L in mine every oil change.

Mines style cam cover baffle kit.

It will live a happy life, but the stuff I reccomended is your choice in the end.

sigh i feel like i have died on the inside.

I am really out of my league with this sort of stuff and im lost, but i think what u said sean makes seance to me, im not going to be running huge boost or power so there is no point in doing the forged internals thats just a waste of cash on the parts and the machine work. If i was to do what you suggested would you happen to know all the parts i would need besides the Baffle pans, pump and bearings?

and is this the cam baffle u where talking about?

http://www.nengun.com/mines/triple-flow-cam-cover-baffle-plate

Edited by T4NK

ok so my list is

Engine======

Bearings

Gasket set

Timing belt (may as well do it with engine out)

Water pump (may as well do it with engine out)

oil delivery====

Sump Baffle

Cam Baffle

Oil Restrictor

Oil pump

hmm well this is a very steep learning curb for me, other option is to fix what is broke and sell her, as sad as i will be

As above, at least get some new genuine rings for the pistons as well.

Shouldn't cost too much.

Also get new timing belt tensioner bearings (because the wear and dry out) and a new tensioner stud, as studs are known to break.

And make sure everything gets cleaned out really well. Ball bearing turbos hate any sort of metal debris in them...

Shop around/ check for sale threads for best deals too.

Ps. Why on earth would you make your GTR a daily, thats just asking for trouble lol !

would have to agree with this 100%.. its not impossible, but far better if you dont have to rely on a car like this as your primary mode of transport unfortunately..

keep us posted, best of luck to you mate..

Mine is a daily i dont see a problem with it being a daily

Everyone's worst nightmare man. Tuff luck. Get it back on the road and enjoy it.

I know u want it as a daily but it's a risky thing man.

I had mine as a daily for a bit and hated putting so many kms on it. The bug will bite mate it's just a matter of time.

I ended up buying a pos daily for $500 to get to work and back. I absolutely love being able to leave my baby in my garage for weekend ls etc. prob the best thing I ever did was buy the daily.

Yeh im waiting on a price to do the oil system and clean the block out and replace bearings, i think this is the best option for me, im also seeing if i can borrow a car from my parents for a few months, if only this happend in 3 months time i would have been ok but 2 weeks after i bought the car, i also think the guy i got it from knew it was shagged as he has not returned any txts or calls and i still have his peronalised numberplates that he wanted me to send back.

Feel your pain, i will be pretty pissed. If this happens to me. luckily mine is weekender only, although do get driven on the odd spirited drive. let us know what you end up doing and how much a standard build cost. everyone talk about big forged builds, but not everyone needs that kind of engine if your keeping it stockish.

Im going to to a forged build but i think im going to use the same size pistons to try to cut down labour on it, im going to have to garrage it for 2-3 months b4 i can do it and ill pay cash for it. I need this thing to be bullet proof, not for big power but for reliablity as i want to use it as a daily. im doing around 120km a day atm but i will be moving closer to my work in the next 6 months so this will cut right down, i just want to enjoy the car and not have to worry about blowing it out again so doing it right the 1st time. Im looking at getting power tune or the shop on the coast to do it at this point depends who can give me the best price and service.

Im going to to a forged build but i think im going to use the same size pistons to try to cut down labour on it, im going to have to garrage it for 2-3 months b4 i can do it and ill pay cash for it. I need this thing to be bullet proof, not for big power but for reliablity as i want to use it as a daily. im doing around 120km a day atm but i will be moving closer to my work in the next 6 months so this will cut right down, i just want to enjoy the car and not have to worry about blowing it out again so doing it right the 1st time. Im looking at getting power tune or the shop on the coast to do it at this point depends who can give me the best price and service.

I was in the same situation of wanting to rebuild it for strength and longevity and only use the stock Nissan parts.

But Racepace explained and justified to me how they rebuild their RB26's and forging is the best.

As well as forging, refinement / customisation / balancing the parts and improving the whole engines setup.

Which leads to Strength / Longevity / With-stand High Power Applications = Bullet proof.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...