Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all!

So I managed to get my hands on a pair of Rota Rims for a great price off a mate. All of these rims are in perfect condition bar one, which has some pretty bad gutter rash, due to an annoying pot hole.

Now inititially I was going to get all the rims powdercoated anyway, as I wanted to change colour. Now my issue is I've been told Powdercoating will get rid of the gutter rash, but ( I don't have any experience with this so excuse the noobishness) will it merely cover it up due to the coating? Or will they remove the rash prior to coating?

Sorry if it's poorly worded what I'm asking!

b2ce937d.jpg

dfb84d5f.jpg

778d6fa5.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/405293-rim-powdercoatinggutter-rash-repair/
Share on other sites

Nah no chance powder coating will cover that mate. It doesn't look too bad in the pictures, how deep is it? If it's really deep then you would need to get them welded, but they don't look that bad. Looks like a quick skim around the outside of the rim on a lathe would fix it up, then it would be ready for powder coating.

+1 for Chris' work, and even if you are interstate Im sure he would coat your rims. He has some really unique colours too

Just a couple of things of mine he has done over the years, I have a slight problem when it comes to powdercoating.............LOL

100_1042.jpg

100_1056-1.jpg

100_1057-1.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Depends on severity and condition of rims.

I haven't had a powdercoat as of yet, but my mate had a set done pearl orange and it cost him 800 I believe. Was a very good job.

But like all jobs you pay for what you get.

I believe there is a place in Williamstown (Mr.Powdercoat?) and it was around 300 for a set, if I remember correctly. Stand to be corrected.

Edited by gtsttrk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...