Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

An interesting build which we have been commissioned for. Take 1 x well used, 70,000km 09 ADM GTR and build it into a reliable daily driveable and mid 9 second package. First up to strip the car....

intbil1.jpg

Dropping both engine and transmission out of the vehicle its time to start stripping them down and begin the process of making something ultimately more power and much stronger. Already this GTR with a small turbo upgrade on 98 octane fuel put down 385kw at the rear wheels

intbil2.jpg

The stock engine although have a few kms under its belt was near perfect internally, with not a mark on the bores...which kind of makes the whole 80,000km rebuild thing look like the internet myth that it really was. This old girl looked like she could have gone another 100,000km without batting an eyelid

intbil3.jpg

The new powerplant is a Greddy 3.8 litre combination we have put together with forged pistons/rods, head studs, and HKS head gaskets. This engine should have no trouble supporting 25 - 30 psi of boost pressure reliably - should it be required.

intbil4.jpg

On top of the tough bottom end we are putting a set of Stage I cylinder heads, lightly ported, cleaned, and freshed in line with the rest of the engine.

Next we will finish the engine and build a tough and reliable transmission to hold the 550+rwkw this combination needs to put down :)

  • Replies 57
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

intbil455.jpg

Engine was buttoned up today and most of the ancillaries put back onto it getting ready for installation back into the subframe. At the moment we are also rebuilding the bell housing to remove that annoying rattle many GTRs suffer from and toughen up the installation some. Everything is on track in this department - and notice the extended sump - important for high horsepower GTRs that may just well see a track.

intbil5.jpg

With the engine being finalised its time to lay out the newest generation GReddy twin turbo kit featuring the cast manifolds to avoid any chance of cracking under high engine loads. It looks like a nice setup, but having a fair bit of experience with the GReddy kit we are making some of our own little engineering changes to make it even better!

intbil6.jpg

The transmission had covered 70,000km and to the best of my knowledge had been on factory fluid all its life. While the gearset was in ok condition the selector pistons were rounded and worn which meaned we had to use our new WR35PC (Piston Clip) to ensure that these didnt turn and cause errors during operation. This is one of the reasons that the transmission was in fault mode when the vehicle was shipped to us (not a local Aussie car). Here is a picture of our fix -

wr35pc1.jpg

This is very similar to the 'Nissan TSB caps' used when these transmissions wear prematurely under warranty. Note the transmission in the picture isnt the transmission out of the car, its a dummy up for the sake of the photo

Another part of the build we have undertaken for this car is the complete overhaul of the troublesome and noisy factory Nissan Bellhousing assembly. We modified it complete to make it fully floating so that it could never give any drama in the life of the car from here on in. Replaced the bearings, clips, sleeved it etc. It will be and remain to be totally silent now :)

int35bila.jpg

If this kind of repair work isnt undertaken whilst the engine is out the bearings and crankshaft can be damaged long term.

good to see we have a local source for transmission/drivetrain repairs - i think most aussies are still adverse to mod'ing due to the stigma of the first US gearbox issues

ive read about the bell housing tsb in US, what exactly are the symptoms or noises to look out for?

Edited by domino_z

Got on track today with the installation of the GReddy turbocharger system on the GTR engine. This is a very neat install due to the kit being JDM and therefore engineered around RHD cars where most of the American product uses LHD as a base and generally runs smack/bang into the steering column of Aussie cars. Dont ask us how we know this! (much hair missing)

intbilb.jpg

Greddy TD06 turbochargers using the latest generation cast iron manifolds. If you are putting turbos on your R35 then ensure you have cast manifolds....as getting at them if something goes wrong is an engine out job and takes a little time

intbilc.jpg

Large 20G turbine wheels should flow enough air to see north of 550awkw without overly stressing the engine

intbild.jpg

Twin external wastegates mounted nice and tight to the bellhousing will keep the backpressure in the manifold down and the power up! :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...