Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Howdy all, I'm considering selling my car as I am moving back to Sydney and won't have a garage or anywhere decent to keep it. This is a pretty devastating thing for me to do and I may pull out, so it is somewhat of an EOI.

This car is as immaculate as a factory paint car gets of a car this age, let alone a drift car. i bought it off a guy who has built many cover cars in his day with the build quality of this being any less Superior then any of his other creations.

This has $60k spent on it with ~$30k in receipts with most parts being less than 9,500kms old. The shell is bullshit, perfectly straight chassis rails the whole way through, uncrashed, unrepaired goodness. It has always been garaged and in 7 years of having the motor in, has done only 9500kms. I have done two tracks days up in Proserpine (one of which was spent fcking with my old handbrake) and one in Syd. The car has been meticulously maintained and I can honestly say that I have only hit limiter in it once or twice (due to fear of previous limiter bashing damage in one of my old SR20s). Anyway enough shit talking....

ENGINE:

R33 RB26DETT with 28,000 genuine km's on it.

Modified and Baffled GTR sump

N1 thermostat

N1 water pump

New Nissan timing belt

Custom performance metal craft 600x300x100 intercooler and plumbing

Oil cooler + remote filter relocator

Custom alloy radiator with remote filler tank

Trust type S BOV with alloy plumb back

Twin HKS filters

Twin custom ceramic coated dump pipes

Twin custom front pipes

3 inch stainless exhaust with stainless muffler and single angled 3” straight pipe outlet (super quiet for street creeping)

Battery relocated in boot

DRIVELINE:

r33 gtst 5 speed gearbox

Quick shift kit

Single piece tailshaft

Brass button clutch

GTR cradle with rebuilt GTR 2way

Rebuilt drive shafts

GTR brakes with vented/slotted rotors - front and rear (Rear uses drum handbrake also)

Brand new Project Mu ‘drift’ rear drum shoes

SUSPENSION:

Rear

New Drift project adjustable toe rods

New Drift project adjustable traction rods

JJR adjustable camber arms

Fresh noltech urethane bushes thoughout whole rear end, including subframe

D2 coilovers with 6kg/mm spring

Front

SMM (Simon Michellemore) knuckle and bolt in spacer setup (easily the best knuckle setup I've used)

New Ikeya Formula extended and strengthened tie rods

New Nissan tie rod ends

New rose jointed Castor rods

EXTERIOR:

Nismo Navan genuine plastic, front bar, side skirts and pods

Carbon fibre bonnet

JJR clear indicators and parkers

Boot holes deleted

HID lights

SSR 16” meshies

Front: 9” wide +18 offset with +20mm bolt on spacers

Rear: 9.5 wide with +18 offset

Rolled gaurds

Alloy wheel nuts

INTERIOR:

Pair of Recaro SR3 on recaro rails

Defi style gauge trio }

Eboost 2 }

Switches } All in carbon fibre panel

AF gauge setup }

Sony CD player moved to glove box to allow space for gauges and carbon panel

Razo carbon fibre gear knob, momo boot

Nardi wheel + horn

D2 detachable steering boss

HKB boss kit with resistor

Some White instruments with blue lights

Nissan floor mats

Alarm, immobiliser

New carpet

Car is fully and legitimately engineered in NSW (however it is a bit lower then legal)

IMG_0300.jpg

IMG_0284.jpg

IMG_0297.jpg

IMG_0295.jpg

522873_308330985912001_1925353046_n.jpg

375719_394835367201045_1580954680_n.jpg

576763_3547878529424_1935635479_n.jpg

Will try get some better pics up soon.

I’m sure there is a bunch of stuff I’ve left off and will update it as I remember.

Located in Mackay, but will be relocating it to wollongong in a few week.

Price: 20k

Cheers all,

Tye.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/405312-s14-rb26-immaculate-has-everything/
Share on other sites

  • 5 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 7 years later...

Massive long shot however I’m trying to get into contact with previous owners, I currently own this car and the owner of the nissan dealership in my town owned for seven years before me, any info would be excellent ultimately my end goal is to find the person who built it. Thanks in advance 

  • 2 weeks later...
On 2/1/2020 at 9:59 AM, Wassell_97 said:

Massive long shot however I’m trying to get into contact with previous owners, I currently own this car and the owner of the nissan dealership in my town owned for seven years before me, any info would be excellent ultimately my end goal is to find the person who built it. Thanks in advance 

PM sent man. Try contacting Tyrone Hunt on Facebook? :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just had this happen to me too.  R32 GTR.   Also broke "just before going out onto the track" - someone up there is looking out for us... Very scary since I was about to do a narrow street course with zero run-off and curbs everywhere. Many people on here upgrading to billet uprights and R35 bearings?   Or buying new OEM knuckles?  I am not keen to replace with another s/h 30 year old fatigued part.
    • Top off with distilled water and see what happens. If you keep losing coolant then you know to start looking.
    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
×
×
  • Create New...