Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys

I noticed last night that one of my aux belts is not sitting correctly on the pulley.

Can anyone identify what belt this is & advice the best way to get it back on & sitting right. Do i need to remove the pulley?

Thanks in advance

post-86207-0-77177500-1343004643_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/405335-aux-belt-on-r34-gtt/
Share on other sites

Thats odd, it shouldnt walk off the pulley unless it wasnt fitted correctly??... Should be your power steer pump and NO you dont need to remove the pulley to fix it, just back of the adjustment, correct it and then re-tighten!

It wont walk mate, there are 5 or so grooves in it to hold it still UNLESS the Pwr Str pump is lose but i highly doubt that!!! Ill go have a look at mine and let you know.....

Maybe the pulley bearing is going?

Not in this case mate, its the power steer pump, if the bearing went he would have oil everywhere and no power assistance..... Just looks like it wasnt fitted correctly as there is no other way it could really happen!

As

No I did it as tight as the other 2 belts were. Hopefully thats alright.

As long as there is some deflection? Too tight puts a lot of strain on the pump itself and bearings etc......

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The final part arrived today to un-clampify and simplify the intake Who would have though a 1/2" hose stainless bulkhead fitting designed for below waterline bilge pumps would be what I needed Test fit on a 3" offcut I had laying around to see if it would work, and it worked a treat All going well the intake will be on its "final version" tomorrow 
    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
×
×
  • Create New...