Jump to content
SAU Community

Hks Fuel Rail Fitting

Hanaldo

By Hanaldo,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

Hey all,

I posted this topic awhile back in the cosmetic section, no idea why lol, it made sense at the time.

Anyway, I stupidly rounded the internal wrenching plug that blocks the middle return hole on my HKS fuel rail, I just wanted to know if anyone knows what size and thread that plug is so I can replace it? Is it an NPT plug or?

Cheers for any help,

Martin.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/405342-hks-fuel-rail-fitting/
Share on other sites
34GeeTeeTee Grand Master

34GeeTeeTee

Posted
Posted

Can you just take the plug to pirtek or something?

Its just a blanking plug to block the middle port on the fuel rail right or have I misunderstood?

Yeah its the blanking plug he is referring too.... Have you pulled it out yet Martin? Or trying to get a replacement before you do?

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Can you just take the plug to pirtek or something?

Its just a blanking plug to block the middle port on the fuel rail right or have I misunderstood?

That's the one.

If no one knows exactly what the fitting is then I will attempt to get it out and take it in. It's just that the liquid transfer solutions stores aren't really near me, it's a good 100km round trip to get to any of them. I will be going to Enzed tomorrow to pick up some braided hose and fittings, so thought if someone can tell me what it is then it saves me a trip.

Yeah its the blanking plug he is referring too.... Have you pulled it out yet Martin? Or trying to get a replacement before you do?

I haven't got it out yet because I still haven't found a 6.5mm allen key. It's also impossible to get a full size allen key on it properly with the Plazmaman plenum on. The head is coming off this weekend, so will get it out when everything else is off.

34GeeTeeTee Grand Master

34GeeTeeTee

Posted
Posted

Sweet, let me know how you go with the head removal etc..... IF there is a place on the east coast that has parts etc i am always happy to grab it and post it etc if it helps mate :thumbsup:

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

It leaks. When I originally put it in, I only put it in finger tight and without any thread sealant on it (doesn't have an o-ring) as I was just using it to block the hole while everything was apart, had been planning on taking it out again later. Then of course in my excitement when everything was back together, I forgot about it.

For some reason, it was then impossibly tight and I rounded it thinking it must be about to crack loose. It seems to have stopped leaking, but I can't exactly see it while I'm driving and the fuel pressure goes up. I have this thing about fire in my engine bay, so I'd rather get it out, replace it, and put it back in properly.

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

better off welding it up then, a fire extinguisher onboard is a good idea. :yes:

Have one :) The plan is to go dual entry in the future so I don't want to weld it. Wouldn't really want to weld it anyway, means getting it anodized again. Not too big a deal but I'm aiming for as quick a turn-around as possible this time, really want the car back on the road.

  • Like 1
34GeeTeeTee Grand Master

34GeeTeeTee

Posted
Posted

The actual plug sits recessed into the rail so i am not sure if the o ring would seal it due to the shape of those plugs, however that is on the right track :yes:

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Yes, it's similar to that, but internal design, like this:

140.jpg

However I'm not sure on the size or thread. -10 would be way too big, that wouldn't even fit on the rail lol. I suspect it might be -6 as the end fittings were both -6, but then someone told me it isn't an AN or NPT fitting :/

Edited by Hanaldo
34GeeTeeTee Grand Master

34GeeTeeTee

Posted
Posted

Have you searched for someone selling a rail on the forums? See if they can get pics and measurements to help you out? They are loose in the pack when new so it wouldnt be a big hassle for them really?

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Have you searched for someone selling a rail on the forums? See if they can get pics and measurements to help you out? They are loose in the pack when new so it wouldnt be a big hassle for them really?

Yehhh I could do, I was just hoping someone had needed to replace one before and remembered exactly what they bought, that way I could be sure it would be correct. Really the best way would just be to pull it out and take it with me, it's just so far to drive :(

kitto Mentor

kitto

Posted
Posted

Can you upload a photo of it?

It wont be an AN thread, it'll be either NPT or O ring port.

Most after market fuel rails have O ring ports threaded into them, then you just simply thread in an O ring port to AN size of your choice adapter.

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Can you upload a photo of it?

It wont be an AN thread, it'll be either NPT or O ring port.

Most after market fuel rails have O ring ports threaded into them, then you just simply thread in an O ring port to AN size of your choice adapter.

I can take a photo of it in the rail? Lol. Looking through the Earls and Speedflow catalogs, there is NPT, AN and Metric threads for these plugs. Just going by the pictures, it looks like it's an NPT plug, it doesn't have an o-ring and the metric plugs aren't internal. So I guess as long as HKS are following what seems to be international standard, then it should be an NPT plug...

what about getting a mobile hydraulics guy to come out?

what about autobarn, would they have any of those rails on the shelf?

Well mine is a genuine HKS, I doubt they have any stock of those. In any case, I believe Autobarn no longer exist in WA, we only have Auto1 here :/ Mobile hydraulics guy is probably a bit too lazy for me haha, if no-one on here knows what the fitting is then I'll just wait until I can get it out and then make the trip again, no big deal.

kitto Mentor

kitto

Posted
Posted

http://www.hks-power.co.jp/usa/images/Pid=1163.html

Judging by the picture, i'm going to say its either a metric or NPT plug. I would say metric though. Probably M14x1.5

Really hard to see though.

Note, that is not an RB fuel rail. But HKS would have made them all very similar.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...