Jump to content
SAU Community

Coolant Leak From Under Intake Manifold.

Rolls

By Rolls,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Rolls Grand Master

Rolls

Posted
Posted

My car is currently getting some tuning work done on it and they noticed a mild coolant leak from under the intake manifold, they pressure tested it and it came up fine but it certainly is leaking. I'm guessing the issue is because we reused the intake gasket from the old motor because it was only ~5000kms old.

Taking the intake manifold off is a gigantic pain in the ass, I'd say putting an engine in is less work so I want to know is if I use some kind of sealant around the edges where it is leaking am I going to have any success, if so what kind of sealant should I try?

I figure it can't exactly make it worse, buy me some time until I can remove it myself.

StevenCJR31 Veteran

StevenCJR31

Posted
Posted

yeah there certainly isnt a lot of room under there,you might have to bite the bullet and take the manifold off as i cant see any kind of sealant staying in place as you would need the surface to be really clean for it too adhere

DVS JEZ Grand Master

DVS JEZ

Posted
Posted

Rolls urs is easy. I just bolted mine back together after a leaking coolant hose. heres what under an rb26 plenum looks like 2539a276.jpg

Heres after replacing hoses, cleaning and new tomei gaskets.

a42281bf.jpg

And back together 229b3fec.jpg

Good thread hijack yeah?

And back ontopic, yes use a slight smear of sealant if there is coolant passing through

sky017 Proficient

sky017

Posted
Posted

i had the same problem when i fitted my after market plenum , hadnt driven it for a few months , and when i finally got it on the road i started to notice a leak . thought normal gasket goo would of done the trick on the first initial install . had enough and endured the pain in the ass of removing it , i simply just loosened mine off and got some ultra strong sealant (red type silicon based) from supercheap , applied it with a little brush to both sides of the gasket and let her sit over night , no more leak . but im guessing your running the standard manifold?

id get a camera phone and take a few photos underneath like i did to determine exactly where , to be sure before you go into removing the manifold.

good luck

Rolls Grand Master

Rolls

Posted
  • Author
Posted

It is an R34 NEO rb25det with an R33 S2 intake bolted to it, so I'm guessing the rb26 intake is quite different DVS JEZ?

Are there any coolant lines running through the intake manifold on an R33? Or is it air only? If so where would the leak be from?

The leak is at the front of the engine, sorry I can't be more specific than that.

Rolls Grand Master

Rolls

Posted
  • Author
Posted

KK so it could be from the gasket then.

My mate offered to change it this week for free! win. Just got a 15% payrise at work with 7 months backpay so I think I will give him a decent lump of cash for it, more of a prick than removing/installin an engine imo.

DVS JEZ Grand Master

DVS JEZ

Posted
Posted

KK so it could be from the gasket then.

My mate offered to change it this week for free! win. Just got a 15% payrise at work with 7 months backpay so I think I will give him a decent lump of cash for it, more of a prick than removing/installin an engine imo.

Lump of cash sounds fun :)

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

It is an R34 NEO rb25det with an R33 S2 intake bolted to it, so I'm guessing the rb26 intake is quite different DVS JEZ?

Are there any coolant lines running through the intake manifold on an R33? Or is it air only? If so where would the leak be from?

The leak is at the front of the engine, sorry I can't be more specific than that.

Neo and R33 manifolds are supposed to be different.

Rolls Grand Master

Rolls

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Neo and R33 manifolds are supposed to be different.

You just have to replace a stud at the front and then it bolts on, or could be super dodgy and put a nut on the end of it.

I bolted R33 everything onto a Neo motor, kept the neo coils + CAS and everything else bolted on no issues.

Edited by Rolls
The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

oh, I was fairly sure we sized the gaskets up and they were off by a little bit more than that.

Also R.I.P.S had to make a custom plenum for a guy because they were different and he had to send them his Neo manifold.

I will have to investigate now.

Rolls Grand Master

Rolls

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

If you could find out more that would be fantastic. I was told by a few workshops the manifolds were basically a bolt on job though.

If the gaskets were off surely I would be having massive problems also?

Edited by Rolls

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      All I hear is ROADTRIP!
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Kinkstaah
      Starting again

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...