Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A while back someone posted a thread about R34 GTR insurance and how much everyone was paying for it (http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/360051-r34-gtr-insurance/page__p__6374995#entry6374995). At the time I was paying around 1900 for my premium with just car (originally 2500 but brought premium down to increase excess) for a 24 year old male with a 2001 v-spec II some mods agreed value of 65k living in mebourne. Just recently I recieved my new policy and my premium went up to $3700 p.a! My initial reaction was W#TF@! this must be wrong or some seriously bad joke, so I called up just car and to my dismay it was anything but that. My driving history, claims history, location etc is all the same. Nothing on my end has changed yet somehow, for some reason, my premium almost doubled. While I was in utter disbelief hurling a flurry of abuse at them on the phone they told me that it had gone up as a result of the christmas hail storm in melbourne and all of the claims that resulted, as well as the flooding in queensland last year. Surely that can't be right, that's too much of an increase. Has anyone else's R34 GTR premium gone up this much? I'm considering contacting the ACCC or ombudsman....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/405792-r34-insurance-joke/
Share on other sites

definetely take up some action, and yes let both insititutions know whats going on maybe some room for legal action. Least they arent blaming the carbon tax they know if they do that ACCC would be so far up their Ass.

Edited by starwarz

Even if they lost during those unfortunate incidents they shouldn't be taking it out on us a year later. I wonder if the standard commodore insurance has gone up that much, no way the bogans can afford that. Looks like there will be heaps of uninsured cars on the road this year.

My quote from "Lumley's SV" was $1000 less than with the other two "S" & "JC" that insure grey imports.

National Ph: 133578

A panelbeater at my church yesterday said that Lumleys are easy to deal with too.

You can PM me for my premium and sum insured.

Sometimes though, a low risk suburb one year, can become a high risk suburb the next. And that's just one variable.

Did you insure any further modifications on the vehicle ??

I just recieved my renewal policy and ended up saving $8 -_- I was sure I'd get at least $100 off from my previous policy as Ive moved from the 18-21 bracket in this renewal term but clearly not..

I just said something on this topic over here - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/405420-v35-insurance-drama/page__view__findpost__p__6466038 - I think it will happen to everybody (ie 50%+ premium increase) at Just as their premiums come due....

My quote from "Lumley's SV" was $1000 less than with the other two "S" & "JC" that insure grey imports.

National Ph: 133578

A panelbeater at my church yesterday said that Lumleys are easy to deal with too.

You can PM me for my premium and sum insured.

Sometimes though, a low risk suburb one year, can become a high risk suburb the next. And that's just one variable.

I tried to get a quote from LSV but they said they don't insure anyone under 25 years old, was told to come back next year.

I was with HBF last yr and they covered me for 60k with premium of $1000. However they are not doing imports anymore so the cheapest i could find was with Shannon's, covered for 60k and 2.2k premium

I just said something on this topic over here - http://www.skylinesa...ost__p__6466038 - I think it will happen to everybody (ie 50%+ premium increase) at Just as their premiums come due....

Yep so its hit you too. I just can't swallow that pill. A 50% increase in a premium which is already exorbitant is just plain ridiculous. I gave shannons a call and they said they dont usually help out in such situations but they would this time, however the premium they gave me was still above 3k. Lumley's sounds like a great option however I too haven't hit 25 yet.

wow... hope its not like that for the gt-t's

Turned 25 this year & my insurance has gone down to $550ish from $950 & I jumped up from rating 3 directly to 1. :yes:

Good thing I drive an R33; the "common corolla" of the Skyline world.

The flood story has been the standard excuse here in Qld for massive home insurance premium increases too.

There's no doubt they check the postcode and then apply a % factor.

Suncorp denied such activity yet I live in Gympie's postcode, and it's well known for the Mary to wet some shops in town.

But it would need the ice caps to melt before my house flooded.

Same for my sister who lives on the top of a mountain in Rocky, yet her premiums went through the roof.

I did have a win when I confronted Suncorp however, told them to review the increase or all my business was walking.

Had a return email on Sunday night showing an extremely modest increase.

Im starting to think just fire and theft is the way to go.

Far to many varibles and reasons they may not pay out in these imports.

Also seeing as ive just done an engine conversion, and just about everything eles, Just car seemed to count them all as a mod.

asking me the value of them all.....if i remeber corectly i was quoted $4200 pa for comp

Edited by sydking

bottom line is you just have to shop around- if possible.

Insurance companies can and will change their prices at any time.

Bottom line is that u are a 24yr old driving a modified 34 GTR. U were already putting urself in dangerous territory with that and only having one available insurer (im pretty sure u said that).

U might find that JustCar worked that out and now know that they are your only option. (Market monoploy=$).

Otherwise, i know alot of insurance premiums across a range of products are going up, Ur not the only one...

Hmmmm i see somone making alot of money insuring imports in the next couple years if this keeps up

Anyone in the industry here?

That's what I'm thinking too. Ok, sure as a general sweeping statment, import cars might be at a higher risk of crash/theft/claims etc, but how much higher? Enough to justify paying a horrendous premium of $2600, then that being overly inflated to $3700? Its BS and we all know it. Like jjman said, they do have a monoply in the market and are exploiting it for all its worth. If decent competition came along they would have a very good chance of making something of it....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
×
×
  • Create New...