Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

AIR Street drags today, took my R35 out for its first Drag meeting.

I never got a chance to take out my old 2009 R35 & it has been years since

running nines in the R33 so was great to get out there again & do some runs.

First run was a 10.7 @ 128, followed by a 10.9 @ 133, and 10.7 @ 134.

Next run was a shocker, it went into limp mode & ran a 19!

Then finished off with another 10.7 @ 130. Was great fun & now I need to put

a cage in it if I want to come back.

Might have to consider a comeback with the R33. Be interesting to see how it would

go with the Michelin slicks compared to the drag radials I used to run back in the day.

Nice one John, very consistent (except the last one :))

What happened to Kier Wilson half way through his run?

Let me know if you want some video, I think I got your last 3 runs.

Dang that's fast. You'd run neck and neck with me....on my bike! In fact you'd probably beat me more often that I'd beat you. Ultimately my R1 is faster but it takes a far more precise run to go that quick.

And ANDRA are homos.

Seriously, they need to revisit their cage rules for street cars.

Yes I would like to see some video of it.

I think 9.99 sec would be a more realistic cut off for roll cage, chutes, etc.

These days there are plenty of genuine street cars that can run into the tens.

It would be tempting to push down to the 10 flat for lots of quick car owners but

the 10.99 cut off seems to discourage that.

As far as chutes go, I was keeping it flat WAY past the traps - up to 235kmhr on one

run! Still had plenty of time to slow down & could have easily taken the corner without

washing off all the speed. I know it has to be one rule for all but old rules are starting

to get a bit conservative.

I had a great time anyway. Might just get a current ANDRA inspection done on my R33

as that has all the gear.

Nice work mate, could you elaborate on the following things for my own personal knowledge.

1. What year model is your GT-R and what modifications

2. What tyres where you running and tyre pressures

3. Did you use launch control and at what rpm was launch

4. Was it on R R off or R R R

This would help me heaps, I have an 09 with full Exhaust and cobb and would like to get in the 10s this will help me work out if its possible.

Cheers,

2011 with Willall mods - WR600 spec I believe.

New Micheins at 39psi - just drove it in there & went for it.

Yes launch in auto, RRR.

Full weight car, full weight driver! Full tank of juice.

1-2/10s better on 60' would give a 10.3 to 10.5 without too much trouble.

This is my daily so probably wont worry about doing it again - they probably stop me anyway.

Pretty happy with that, was fun to blow past the straight out exhaust V8s that were trailered there!

was good to see the runs munro. be interesting to see with lower PSI.

10.99 is a bit of a joke, plenty of cars there seemed to be running faster with no cage etc (they did seem to be v8's though) and with drum bakes on the rear. think ANDRA do need to re visit and make it 9.99 or something like that

good job

anyway

2011 with Willall mods - WR600 spec I believe

Hey mate nice run. You say willall wr600 spec for your mods. But on his site wr600 package suggests 600kw... Man if your producing over 800 hp shouldnt you should be cracking the 9's with those numbers? Are you running stock turbos?

No, its not as simple as that.

Go back a few years (ok 10 or so) & there were only a few of us that were pushing up over

450awkw with our GTRs. With 600hp at the wheels (getting up towards 800hp at the crank)

you needed to strip out your car & drive it like you stole it to push into the high nines.

After you spend tens of thousands of dollars breaking driveshafts, gearboxs, engines etc

you go crazy with more power & get into the mid nines, then in Keir's case even crazier &

into the 8s. Back then we were talking 1/4 million plus cars. 1000hp - 1300kg.

Now zoom forward to today. An R35 GTR weighs in around 1800kg with some fuel in it.

Even with 800hp, the launch control system will only give as much torque as it thinks the

treads can take - it might halve the power for that precious 1.5 seconds or so that you are

trying to move 1800kg (plus driver) over that first 60 foot.

Elapsed time on the 1/4 is ALL about the 60' time. GTRs are not designed for this.

Engine tuners just look at the mph to see what a car COULD do if it got the perfect world hookup.

My best mph on the day was 134mph. Good for a flat 10.

Back in the 90's I used to run a small block HJ ute in Super Sedan.

It ran 10.1 all day at 133mph.

With 600hp!

But it couldnt stop. Or corner.

GTRs are amazing street & circuit cars that just happen to be a bit handy down the 1/4.

No, its not as simple as that.

Go back a few years (ok 10 or so) & there were only a few of us that were pushing up over

450awkw with our GTRs. With 600hp at the wheels (getting up towards 800hp at the crank)

you needed to strip out your car & drive it like you stole it to push into the high nines.

After you spend tens of thousands of dollars breaking driveshafts, gearboxs, engines etc

you go crazy with more power & get into the mid nines, then in Keir's case even crazier &

into the 8s. Back then we were talking 1/4 million plus cars. 1000hp - 1300kg.

Now zoom forward to today. An R35 GTR weighs in around 1800kg with some fuel in it.

Even with 800hp, the launch control system will only give as much torque as it thinks the

treads can take - it might halve the power for that precious 1.5 seconds or so that you are

trying to move 1800kg (plus driver) over that first 60 foot.

Elapsed time on the 1/4 is ALL about the 60' time. GTRs are not designed for this.

Engine tuners just look at the mph to see what a car COULD do if it got the perfect world hookup.

My best mph on the day was 134mph. Good for a flat 10.

Back in the 90's I used to run a small block HJ ute in Super Sedan.

It ran 10.1 all day at 133mph.

With 600hp!

But it couldnt stop. Or corner.

GTRs are amazing street & circuit cars that just happen to be a bit handy down the 1/4.

well said:) and their is an extra 40KG ballast in the driver seat now J/K

my 32 with 400 managed mid 10's and to get any better would cost an absolute fortune.

your 33 was a weapon to get in to the 9's and look at all the comfort and style of your 'daily 35' to be just that 1sec slower:) i know which id rather.

now run the ML:)

haha. ML. now that would be funny. They are supposed to run 12.9 sec!

Martin reckons he got another 100hp out of Keir's CLS with the twin turbo 5.5L

so maybe I should let him hook up the cables to the ML & see what the fourby can do!

I think the XR6 should be next in line for a day at the drags - has been a LONG time between drinks..............

Maybe next time I take the R33 out I should ask them if I can take the tow car for 1 run - just for fun!

No, its not as simple as that.

Go back a few years (ok 10 or so) & there were only a few of us that were pushing up over

450awkw with our GTRs. With 600hp at the wheels (getting up towards 800hp at the crank)

you needed to strip out your car & drive it like you stole it to push into the high nines.

After you spend tens of thousands of dollars breaking driveshafts, gearboxs, engines etc

you go crazy with more power & get into the mid nines, then in Keir's case even crazier &

into the 8s. Back then we were talking 1/4 million plus cars. 1000hp - 1300kg.

Now zoom forward to today. An R35 GTR weighs in around 1800kg with some fuel in it.

Even with 800hp, the launch control system will only give as much torque as it thinks the

treads can take - it might halve the power for that precious 1.5 seconds or so that you are

trying to move 1800kg (plus driver) over that first 60 foot.

Elapsed time on the 1/4 is ALL about the 60' time. GTRs are not designed for this.

Engine tuners just look at the mph to see what a car COULD do if it got the perfect world hookup.

My best mph on the day was 134mph. Good for a flat 10.

Back in the 90's I used to run a small block HJ ute in Super Sedan.

It ran 10.1 all day at 133mph.

With 600hp!

But it couldnt stop. Or corner.

GTRs are amazing street & circuit cars that just happen to be a bit handy down the 1/4.

Was that ute yellow?

It's funny the difference between the Na v8s and the turbo cars

A good mate of mine runs mid-high 10s in a full weight xa Tudor with 425rwhp but given a manual box it would have a whole heap more, so don't discount the r35 off the line as pound for pound your car sounds like it gets off the line well

What I do love seeing is that xa on 15x9s and drag radials beating the guys with 15x14s tubs and huge slicks, ladder bar rear ends etc but they are a second slower then an angry streeter

haha. ML. now that would be funny. They are supposed to run 12.9 sec!

Martin reckons he got another 100hp out of Keir's CLS with the twin turbo 5.5L

so maybe I should let him hook up the cables to the ML & see what the fourby can do!

I think the XR6 should be next in line for a day at the drags - has been a LONG time between drinks..............

Maybe next time I take the R33 out I should ask them if I can take the tow car for 1 run - just for fun!

ill run the ute for you:)

someone said you maybe willing to sell the ute? i sent you a PM too:)

Ps you should run the 33 more, I saw it ah heathcote (or was it spring nats?) years and years ago

Edit - would've had to be heathcote, because from memory you broke a front shaft or something and I was pissed because I was stuck with shit tyres and running low 14s at 105 in my blue r33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...